A bit of a cautionary tale.

Had new torsion leaves and ball joints fitted by Andrew (local legend and VW mechanic) who wasn't well and was leaving for home.  When he gave me the keys back he said the alternator light had come on while he was test driving after finishing and he was sorry he couldn't see anything obvious and would I mind checking it out for him. Happy to sort that as I am pretty good with the system after a few alternator changes. I only had a couple of km to go to the office and had to get back as I was working on a work fault, so no big issue if the alternator wasn't charging. (Type IV engine so fan belt slipping isn't as critical as on a Type 1).

I made it to the office but noticed the revs at idle being a little high and the oil temp seemed to come up quicker than I am used to (didn't make it to normal level but it wouldn't have risen that quickly normally over a similar time).

Checked the fan belt in the carpark and it was loose.  Then i noticed the crank pulley was wobbling a little.  Pulled off the cover and yes, it was loose, not just me imagining it.

I managed to torque it up (had most of my tools out of the bus but the torques wrench and the large socket set were still there!) and made it home without issue.

Turns out the main hub nut had loosened and the hub had worked itself back enough to get some movement on the woodruff key on the crank which eventually sheared and allowed the crank pulley to slip enough to lower the output of the alternator (and the cooling air fan!) and bring the light on.  Ill be putting the hub back on with locktite and a new hub bolt (and key).

I have been thinking back and I don't recall having the hub off at all previously so it may have been working its way loose from as far back as when the engine was rebuilt without locktite around 15 years ago. (I bought it from the person who had it built by another VW mechanic but it had never been run or fitted)

Very lucky I know my bus pretty well and noticed things had changed, but even luckier I didn't drive too far before I found the issue - not a alternator or regulator fault at all, but something with the potential for far more damage through over heating the engine.

Adrian

Hi all, another quick question, I'm in the process of getting the dash ready for paint and install, and I'm curious about the switch placement. Specifically the large hole to the right of the steering column. I initially thought that someone had butchered it to fit something else, but on closer inspection it appears to be factory. You can tell by the way the hole in the sheet metal didn't quite line up with the hole in the steel brace behind when they were spot welded together. So what would be the purpose of this hole? It appears to be the right size fir a ciggy lighter, but that would be an odd place for it.....thanks for any help
                                                            
                                                          Mark

   

If you have 4m 16sec to waste and want a chuckle, watch this on the new 2026 NB. 
The subtitles are a hoot - keep an eye out at 1m 38s

https://youtu.be/iDLew7XX-JE?si=kTqLtW6ors-Q8Sz4

For the record, I do like them

Looks like we have no longer a source for replacement sliding door hinges or any of the other wonderful repro parts Dale made of the past few years.

I wish him well and I am sure there was reasons behind his closing, but it would have been good if there had been a bit of notice, (I might have just missed it).

Adrian

Hi all, back for more help. Finally got the bus painted, and now in the process of repairing and reinstalling the harness. She's been a bit butchered over the years, but I'm trying to use as much of the original as I can. Anyway, I was just browsing the wiring diagrams, and got stumped on the turn signal wiring. I'm generally pretty good with auto electrics (ATV/UTV mechanic by day.....) but I just can't figure out how the telltales on the dash differentiate between left and right according to the diagram. Could be I've just had a huge brain fart, but I honestly can't make sense of it...
Any ideas? Thanks,
                              Mark


   

Good morning everybody.

My '75 bus is pretty much impossible to start after heavy rain.  Even after periods of very humid weather, it just wont start. It's worse if it hasn't been driven for a few days.  However, after 5 minutes with a hairdryer pointed at the distributor cap it starts like a dream.  Once its warmed up its right for the day, even if it sits in bucketing down rain.
The problem is worse in the morning, but if the sun comes out and I don't drive it until lunchtime, it starts fine. I've pulled the distributor cap and I can't see any cracks or damage and the rotor appears in good condition too. It's obviously getting moisture inside hence why it starts after I put the hairdryer on it or when it sits in the sun for a few hours.  How do I stop the moisture getting in? It's getting a bit frustrating especially living on the Gold Coast where it seems to rain 80% of the year.

Help!!!

ASH

Hi all, just got a coat of paint on the interior of the bus, and started thinking about sound deadening. I will be using adhesive mat on the vertical panels and the roof, but I'm not keen on adhesive for the floor, as it tends to trap moisture in my experience. So I was curious as to what you all use. As far as I can see the only options are a spray on, or a thick carpet underlay.....also not quite sure what I want to do with the parcel rack at the back. Any advice welcome, thanks,
                        Mark


                

My alternator tensioning bolt worked loose and there was a lot of slack in the belt. Can`t find anywhere that tells me how to tighten the belt and how tight it should be. 

Can I  be either pointed in the right  direction re finding the relevant post of get a quick lesson in alternator  belt tightening please. 

BTW its a type 4 motor.

Thanks

Hi friends,

After 16 years I'm regrettably having to sell my beloved 'Flppy' (elderly Mum can't climb in anymore).

Aside from the year/model, rego status and photos, what other info woulld be helpful for someone looking to buy, please?

Thanks for your help!

Hi everyone
New member here in Darwin.  I recently bought a 1976 T2 Transporter minus a motor and interior in pretty rough condition but not very rusty and not in any difficult spots.
We had Kombis when I was a kid in the 80's and have pretty much driven north, south, east and west in them around the whole country but this is MY first one and I'm very happy to have it.
I paid $2000 for it and can't remember the last time I saw one for sale within 500km of Darwin so jumped when I got the chance.
Anyway, just saying hello and starting to browse the forum.
Cheers
Chris