type4 2.3ltr build

[rstucke]

So needed to work out how to fit this engine into my test bed as the test bed has a vw bell housing to hold engines
I was able to source a surplus Forester box which I cut the front off, machined it flat, cut a 6mm aluminium plate to fit and welded the whole thing together. Worked out the centre of the engine and bolted the new bell housing to the arbor that fits into the test bed.
   
   
   
   
   

[rstucke]

Slight distortion from welding which was removed on a surface plate
The engine is now in my test bed ready for the rest of the build
   
   
   
   

Also had a tinware moment

[rstucke]

Had a tinware moment

Needed to alter the tinware and the engine conversion plate on the 3-4 Side and the bit that meets the firewall slightly 

forgot to take pictures till after it was done and the upper tinware colour matched to the van

   
   


Cylinder heads next and this will present a problem. Because of the stroker crank the combustion chambers will be too small and I want the squish area to be at or bellow 1.5mm. Rough calculation, 6cc need to come out of the head to get the compression ratio I want

[rstucke]

I'm back on the engine (we don't go anywhere in January)
Life has been too busy with hosting cousins from Germany and 2 bouts of covid
To be honest though the long block is complete.
There have been some hiccups on the way and the following is a history of the build

While setting the deck height I had a feeling that something wasn't quite right (almost indiscernable) that slowed me down by over a week
when I get the pics off my phone I'll go into what happened.

on to the cylinder heads

to keep the deck height tight (1.5mm or below) creates 2 problems for a longer stroke and oversized bore motor

1 The compression ratio will be way to high (dynamic compression for my torque cam also too high for a street motor)
2 The step in an AMC head protrudes past the cylinder into the chamber and at 0.8mm means clearence to the piston
would be 0.7 at most and even less for a tighter deck.

So grind out the head and either remove the step (and put that distance under the barrel on the crank case side) or as I did machine the step back inline with the cylinder bore.

                   

[rstucke]

checking cc's

   

mixture of 2 stroke oil with a dash of petrol

   

I used a couple of tungsten burs to roughly take out the combustion chambers (no pics) 
Then made and used these to smooth out the chambers
Then re- measured and gouged and smoothed some more then repeat (took me 8hrs a head)

       

When I got them to the correct cc's I media blasted them with fine garnet to smooth them out more

here is a before and after pic to show the difference in chamber shape

[rstucke]

Feeling a bit crook (covid)
more tomorrow

[Barry]

Ahhh…. The art of engine building 

It’s one thing to build a 1776 Type 1 with an Engle 110 with kadrons. 

Building a 2.3 L Type 4 stroker is a whole new ball game

[Barry]

I was going to do a 2.3L type 4 but 66 crank and 103’s but decided it was way too hard and $$$$$

[Oldman]

……..and people still wonder why a quality engine build costs time and $$$….
Your attention to detail is remarkable Rick, hats off too you 
Btw….I could’ve done with that surplus Suby gearbox……our Forester has just 5hit its front diff…..

[rstucke]

……..and people still wonder why a quality engine build costs time and $$$….
Your attention to detail is remarkable Rick, hats off too you 
Btw….I could’ve done with that surplus Suby gearbox……our Forester has just 5hit its front diff…..

I really hated to destroy it for just that small section, looked for the auto bell housing which would have done but couldn't find one
As for the cost so far, I will never disclose as it is eye watering and yet unproven on a 5 speed Subaru transmission.