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type4 2.3ltr build
#1
Hi
Started this thread ln the old forum
all gone didn't save it.
The idea was/is Subaru 5 speed trans (done and stored and recorded in the old thread) behind an engine with more torque than the engine I have now (which hass more torque than a sandard 2ltr)
The design is the result caused by motor way driving (which we have to do North or south from the central coast)
While my current 2ltr can sit well over motor way speeds (and does) it shows its' short coming's up long inclines, some up the southern tablelands some north of Bulahdelah also mount Ousley, Kings highway blah blah. While we can keep up a reasonable speed in these areas it is slower than modern traffic. The problem with this on motorways are heavy transport.
Picture this. 
Driving along at 115kmh (lets face it that's what everyone does). Second Hill out of Bulahdelah (kilometres long) kombi speed drops to 100kmh so left lane to let the tradies past. Truck up ahead going 30kmh (some less), we're fucked, down to 3rd and 2nd while more traffic passes and we have difficulty regaining speed speed fast enough to enter the right lane.
Answer. 
Have enough torque to maintain motorway speeds up inclines in the first place.

I researched the idea of a torque monster. 
Everything I looked at was about horse power which is a calculation of torque and rpm. If you want to be a part of what some idiots are proposing with 200hp+ then you'll be spinning your engine over at 7000rpm + good luck with driverbility because you'll have nothing around 2800 to 3500rpm where driving takes place in a kombi.

I had a conversation with Wayne Penrose (I've done a few steering boxes for him) who mentioned a 2.7ltr with a torque cam (definitely a torque monster) and was thinking of going that way. 

Along came Ian (Ian&shelly not sure if he moved over to this forum) who asked me to help him with a 2.3ltr kit he purchased from AA performance which I agread  because I was interested in the potential gains in torque.
Long story short we sorted his engine and with a set of 40mm idfs (Italians) we tested its torque up an incline out of Ourimbah to Peats Ridge (reasonably steep Run) after sorting the carbies out.
My kamper fully loaded just holds 100kmh up that stretch. We sailed up there effortlessly in his and I had to back off after we reached 130kmh half way up.

I was convinced this was a better way to go and after discussing with Wayne penrose (who mentioned I would need to upgrade the cooling system to DTM or Porsche to go 2.7ltr) I made the decision to get the high end parts for a 2.3ltr from him.

So I now have what I need (It's only taken 12 months, maybe a bit more) and 3 sets of cases I've had machined
The CV case is what I'm building for Blitz
A "C" case (this is a low mileage replacement case) that will be a 2ltr turn key engine (complete) with new parts that I have for sale
A CV case which will have a reground crank, new bearings,Engle torque cam and bearings and Shadick oil pump (so bottom end) for sale.

I'll have pics of the bits soon as the with Pryce engine being balanced atm (they have a really nice Sunnon balancer) so until I get the stuff back I've modified the oil pickup on the CV case to overcome the type4 syndrome ( See pics)
I plan to do this on all the cases.
   
   
   
   
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#2
Rick
Have you stroked this or gone with big bore cylinders?
76 Bay Microbus - Woody
90 T3 Caravelle C Auto - Daisy
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#3
(11-02-2023, 08:08 AM)Barry Wrote: Rick
Have you stroked this or gone with big bore cylinders?

78mm counterweight molly crank
96 cylinders
kB pistons with lifted pin height
5.325 H beam rods
bespoke fly wheel to marry up the Subaru 5 speed
All that and the front fan are being balanced on a Sunnen (about the best balancer out there) at Pryce engines in Newcastle
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#4
mmmmm………engine porn.  Big Grin!
Cheers,
Mark
It’s not oil, it’s sweat from all the horsepower !  

Pit crew for : The Tardis - a ‘76 Sopru Campmobile
                   & Herman  - the ‘71 White Low Light
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#5
(11-02-2023, 05:21 PM)Oldman Wrote: mmmmm………engine porn.  Big Grin!

Keep calm, there's a long way to go
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#6
In your opinion Rick, what causes type 4 syndrome?
Flogging the engine/ running it hot for extended periods ? Low oil level ? or just a minimal pickup tube boss casting ?
Cheers,
Mark
It’s not oil, it’s sweat from all the horsepower !  

Pit crew for : The Tardis - a ‘76 Sopru Campmobile
                   & Herman  - the ‘71 White Low Light
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#7
(12-02-2023, 07:58 AM)Oldman Wrote: In your opinion Rick, what causes type 4 syndrome?
Flogging the engine/ running it hot for extended periods ? Low oil level ? or just a minimal pickup tube boss casting ?

2 things can cause the threaded section of the oil pickup pipe boss in the 1/2 side case to split and or break away.

the first one caused by the engine builder 
the through bolt that holds the pickup in place is not a standard length (slightly longer). This is because the threaded section in the case is longer to help disperse downward force created by the strainer plate nut. You either use the correct bolt or cut down the next size up in length and run a die down it to increase the thread length (you can't buy that length bolt). If you use a standard length bolt there will be more stress near the outer edge of the boss (because it's too short) which promotes a crack leading to a piece breaking off.

the other cause is created by whoever services the engine.
The recommended torque for the strainer plate nut is 1.3 mkg or 9ft/lb for a reason (should be obvious)
unfortunately if the gaskets weep some people do the nut up much tighter instead of working out why
This can cause the through bolt holding the pickup to bend down stressing the edge of the threaded boss causing a possible breakage
combine over tightening with a bolt that's to short and the result is a broken boss every time

truly a shitty design. 
I'm building a few engines that I may sell and while I use the correct through bolt I can't guarantee the the person servicing the engine knows what they're doing hence my modification
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#8
by the way the bolt you see in the pics is only there to centralise the eye on the pickup tube so I could position the feet properly. It's removed before the cases come together. The through bolt goes through the 3/4 case, through the oil pick up eye and screws into the 1/2 case
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#9
I'll be picking up my engine parts from Pryce engines on Monday all balanced
pistons, rods, crank, flywheel, fan and pressure plate.


   
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#10
In the waiting days I've been repairing a set of heater boxes 
tinware around the pipes in and out of the boxes was rusted and thin.

                   
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