type4 2.3ltr build

[rstucke]

Adjusting so exhaust tubes line up properly and slip onto the heads without binding and bead blasting

                   

Will finish them next week

[rstucke]

Finished the heater boxes today
A little welding, a little heat proof paint, all done

           

may I have this dance

   

[rstucke]

       

Now on to the engine build

[Oldman]

Love your work Rick ……and your workshop!

[rstucke]

Love your work Rick ……and your workshop!

A bit of MIG  and TIG
Realy like what you're getting into
The right teachers, and all 3 forms which sometimes  need to be used together
looking forward to your progress

[Grantus]

Extraordinary talent Rick! 

Thanks so much for sharing the awesome journey with us all.

[rstucke]

Parts are back from Pryce engines.
After thorough cleaning of all parts I weighed the pistons with pins in, 1/2 a gram from highest to lowest, conrods zero difference 
according to the paper work the combined balance was within 1.7 grams
Used crank gear and brass gear were in good condition. I put them in my toaster oven for 20min at 200 deg C
They fell onto the crank and locked on solid (definitely better than trying to bash them on).

crank is now together, big end clearance all between 0.050mm and 0.060mm
all lubed up with ep assembly grease and oil.
waiting on cam bearings before fitting into case.

                   

[1500king]

2 things can cause the threaded section of the oil pickup pipe boss in the 1/2 side case to split and or break away.

the first one caused by the engine builder 
the through bolt that holds the pickup in place is not a standard length (slightly longer). This is because the threaded section in the case is longer to help disperse downward force created by the strainer plate nut. You either use the correct bolt or cut down the next size up in length and run a die down it to increase the thread length (you can't buy that length bolt). If you use a standard length bolt there will be more stress near the outer edge of the boss (because it's too short) which promotes a crack leading to a piece breaking off.

the other cause is created by whoever services the engine.
The recommended torque for the strainer plate nut is 1.3 mkg or 9ft/lb for a reason (should be obvious)
unfortunately if the gaskets weep some people do the nut up much tighter instead of working out why
This can cause the through bolt holding the pickup to bend down stressing the edge of the threaded boss causing a possible breakage
combine over tightening with a bolt that's to short and the result is a broken boss every time

truly a shitty design. 
I'm building a few engines that I may sell and while I use the correct through bolt I can't guarantee the the person servicing the engine knows what they're doing hence my modification

Rick..

Part number for those thru-bolts is N0103732

They are water pump/oil pump bolts for Mk1 Golf/Passat/Audi 100, 5+5, 80/90 incl Quattro

They are still available. M8x72mm

Copper sealing washer 8.2x16mm, part # 021101189.

9ft-Lbs on the nut, they usually weep when folks refit a strainer they've butchered in trying to remove after great gobs of sealer have been previously applied, or fail to seat the plate properly on fitting.

They crack the case by overtightening the strainer nut. Simple as that. I've removed many a bent thru- bolt.

It's the Aussie way.. 5 ugga dugga's? and who has an inch pound torque wrench or something bigger than that to go down to 9 ftlbs anyway!!

[rstucke]

Some progress

   
   
   

[rstucke]

Bits for the Subaru gearbox and setting crank endfloat