69 Baywindow Resurrection- The time has come!

[Cbus]

Shopping day in the city!
Penetrol
Tectyl
Etch primer
A finger sander
And a heap of other products I can't get at home. 
Missed out on weld through primer  but have ordered some. Seems auto stores and hardware don't carry it.

Don't panic on the weld through primer.
Its just convenient and quick drying.

Just modify procedure.
prime the parts first with a waterproof primer and grind paint off spots to be welded.
Then penetrol welds after plus tectyl when penetrol dried .( 24hrs min.)

If I'm in a hurry I just run some tape along the area to be welded and hit with a couple of coats of epoxy primer.
The penetrol wet on wet and tectyl do a good job of getting into seams.
.

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Free delivery over $120.
https://caredistributors.com.au/products...rimer.html

Best price on a fine finishing bog.
Grab a can of their $55 bog for general work as well.
https://caredistributors.com.au/products...hgEALw_wcB

Plastic rulers are good for shaping bog .
Grab a few.
Saves a lot of sanding.

[Wombatventures]

Thanks Col, I like the tape idea. Quick and painless. 
Hoping to do a bit Saturday if it doesn't rain. Got a  vintage tractor pull to go to Sunday.
Looking forward to getting the hole welded up so I  an start on the next bit. Last couple of weekends have been unproductive  bus  wise. Now I've got products to use I can get stuck in.
Got  my new air compressor hose reel hung this morning before work. Making life easier is part of getting the bus done.

[Wombatventures]

Cleaned up the section to be repaired,  gave it a light clean with phosphoric then a good rinse. Dried it out with air and then gave it a hit with Penetrol. Will give it a prime tomorrow. 
   
Did the same with rim. Still got hub cap clips to do but will prime it anyway.
   
Then I gave the Notch a bit of TLC, put a fan belt on actually.  Lucky I had a spare.

[Wombatventures]

Yes I had another detour day...
Supported a local event organised by the bloke on this tractor...
   
He also built the sled used for testing them. Check out the tyres!
40 + local cars and trucks...
   
And tractors...
   
   

I did get some primer on the bus when I got home too.

[Wombatventures]

Only got an arvo today to work on the bus for the whole weekend.
Got a patch on the inner frame but ran out of gas.
   
Need to do a couple of touch-ups but is better than ...
   

[Wombatventures]

Work and life constraints have kept me away from the bus for a couple of weeks.
I've come across KBS Coatings Rust Seal through a youtube build I've been watching. I'm thinking of using it on the underside of the bus. Has anyone had any dealings with Any of the KBS products?
https://www.kbs-coatings.com.au/product/rust-seal/

Had a heap of parts arrive in the mail while I've been busy. So I'm hoping to get into them this weekend.

[Wombatventures]

Had a few hours on the bus today. Decided to fabricate a complete patch to cover the hole. Started by filling the rust hole in the wheel well and getting that sorted. Got most of the new panel welded in but time got away from me so there is a bit to finish welding and smoothing tomorrow. 
   
There is a bit of warping above the patch but I can get to the back of the panel from the inside so will be able to knock thout out.
At last I feel like I'm getting onto the body issues.
After next weekend I should have a bit more spare time.

[Wayne Murray]

 Has anyone had any dealings with Any of the KBS products?
https://www.kbs-coatings.com.au/product/rust-seal/

I've used on my 72 Microbus, on the inside of the chrome bumper bars and bumper bar brackets and engine bar etc
I've also use Por15 on my SC ute for the areas as above . 
In my opinion I prefer the KBS over Por15 main reason is what I see as an end result in the top coat over a long period of time.
All the prep systems for both are what I can tell are very similar and couldn't tell the difference and if the instructions are followed well, your get good results.
Main Difference I can tell is like mentioned is in the top coats. I went for a top coat as for longevity in the UV factor of the product. As the rust paint isn't UV stable.
With KBS I noticed that the gloss level remains the same over time and once dirty a clean of components makes it look shiny again. Where Por15 gloss level hasn't been maintained at a glossy level and it to me remains looking like a dirty look, as if you haven't washed it. Don't know if that's the best way to explain it. It's also like dirt has embedded itself into the surface of the paint and needs washing with water to remove the contaminates,  
The other thing is in some colours of Por15 has no body in the paint and you need several coats to cover what's underneath it.

[Wombatventures]

Thanks Wayne. 
What you've found matches other opinions I've read across the net. Will order a kit soon so that I can do the whole underside once the welding is is all done.
Hopefully the next few weeks will see the body getting a good bit of attention,  then I can start replacing  the mechanicals that need a renew.

[KIWI]

+1 for Wayne's comments.
Make sure you follow instructions to the letter to ensure a proper bond between coats.

The rust sealing coat dries to an incredibly hard smooth shiny finish. The top UV coat must be applied before the rust sealing coat(s) are fully dry.

PR