69 Baywindow Resurrection- The time has come!

[Wombatventures]

May 28

High pressure was out for another job so decided theyard needed watering...
   
Reckon this old paint might buff up once the rust is cut out.
   

---

This photo may make no sense today...
   
Hopefully by tomorrow night all will be revealed!

[Wombatventures]

May 29
Today's...
   

---

Kahuna Kombi suggested I needed some pickers to come along and make room for the kombi...

Less than half a trailer full... there were chipboard cupboards under the junk that had to be turned into flat pack rubbish. Plus several milk crates of brew bottles that have now been moved into the new brew shed.

The 200mm C sections are now closer to the shed they're due to replace as well.



 


l.
 

---

Hopefully put the bug in a rainwater tank for a while to free up the carport for the kombi. 7 days doesn't seem to have been wasted!
Project for another day. No motor or trans. Possible electric conversion? First job will be clean up the body and paint it and then it can go on display in Becs shop. For now it's to be relocated.


 







 

[Wombatventures]

June 5
Work in the yard to make room for the bug got suspended by being peed on from a great height!
So I did some workshop tidying.
Then just as I was about to knock off the rain stopped long enough to get at the kombi.
This definitely needs replacing...
   
   
Couldn't work out if that was glued...
   
Stole Becs hair-dryer and came out easy...
   
Now to get a replacement...

---

June 6 
Wayne...
I'll have a look tomorrow to see if I got a spare one that is square. I take it the lid is ok?
I thought the earlier bay window brake reservoir that was in that front location was round, unless that's a 68 thing
Jun 5, 2022

wombatventures...
All of the sites have round ones. Not sure if this has been changed over. Hell it was brittle.

wombatventures



Assume it should be this one...

   

Yes.
Jun 5, 2022

wombatventures

Getting an order together for Mick Motors this week.
Jun 5, 2022

Wayne murray

rubber seals that go into the plastic brake pipe and then brake reservoir into that. x2
Jun 5, 2022

wombatventures

Thanks Wayne.
Will add those.
Do you think the bottom reservoir will be brittle as well ? I didn't have time to get at it today because of the rain. Hoping to get the master cylinder out before Friday as I want to drop it to PBR in Adelaide if I can. Hoping it can be reconditioned. 

Wayne murray

Being 53 years old most likely would be brittle as well. Should still be usable, if it isn’t like the bottle of course. Just would need a good clean inside to get the crud out of it.

Jun 5, 2022

---

Took a crawl underneath after work tonight. Reservoir seems OK. Was late so didn't do anything more than look and put the spanners in the cab so I can have a go tomorrow. Then it started to rain again. It's like the east coast only without flooding here.
Looks like it'll need some TLC...
   
Hope the inside is better than the outside!
Did notice these couple of spots while I was under there...
   
Might need a little patching. Only spots I've seen in the cab floor so far.

[Wombatventures]

Had few minutes to spare after work. Nuts holding the master cylinder in cracked easy. So they'll be ok to get off. The ones on each brake line are bloody awkward to get at.

Thought maybe I could undo them here and pull the lines through the frame with master cylinder. 

When I cracked the line I found there was still fluid in there after 10 years...

Do I try bleeding new fluid through the whole system and see what leaks before I pull it apart? 

David said
• Will let you know what your next move is in the reno

Grantus said
• Will let you know what your next move is in the reno

Oldman said
If you’re going to bleed the entire system, check for any signs of “cottage cheese” in the bleed line….
Brake fluid in M/C , slaves and disc callipers has a nasty habit of degrading after long periods of sitting idle.
• Personally, I wouldn’t run the risk with brakes……all the components are cheap enough to replace and you’ll know that you will have a properly functioning system without potential blockages when you need them least…..
Cheers,
Mark


Bert said
• Agree with Mark ..... the brakes are one thing not to skimp on 


Had the experience with Paddy the Type3 ..... put him in for some defined work which included new wheel cylinders and ended up with more in the brake system needing work - brake lines were ok as they were relatively new but other parts were wrongly installed in that they weren't the right ones for a Type3.
Oh and the handbrake cables ..... another story there and should also be thoroughly checked.

• Yes we do like spending others money for them

---

Dead set agree. Already replacing all of the wheel cylinders or at least getting them overhauled depending on price.  Hopefully master cylinder overhauled as well. Thought I'd Bleed through new fluid first to see what state the lines are in. Handbrake cable looks OK and works OK but plan to replace it anyway.

---

June 9 
Almost got the master cylinder off after work tonight, but then it started raining again! Maybe this weekend I'll get it into the carport.

---

June 11
Plan for today...
Make Bug move for first time in years....
   
Check
Prove that Ruby is really dumb...
   
Check.
Let the Bug visit its Brethren...
   
   

Check.
Sort out the Carport for the Kombi...
• Well I got started but then it was dinner time....and...well there's always tomorrow!

[Wombatventures]

4 hours of removing an old set of shelves that have been hiding in the carport for years, and sorting and find forgotten treasures! Then a sweep out and....

   

Really need to get a set of wheel dollies....

But jack and slide board and....

   

Now to extend the carport by 5 feet!

---

June 13
Picked up a Stratco carport for a customer Friday. Big sheets of core flute packing.
   

Now I can slip slide around underneath!
   

And yes Ruby's other names are Chichane... and get out of the f'n way!

---

June 15
Bit the bullet this morning before work...

   

I'd forgotten how hard it is to take that first bit of original paint off of car....

   

And so it begins....

---

Looks like the rust has removed more of the original paint (and metal), than you have done in your first strike…..

I only had 5 minutes before work. Did a little more when I got home before it got dark. Seems there is a leak from the window up above, (Back drivers side), might need a bit of attention up there and inside the panel. Will investigate more on the weekend.

---

After talking to the guys at Mick Motors today I'm thinking of removing the rear side windows with the flipper vents and replacing them with one piece fixed glass. 

Thoughts and opinions?

---

Having just done something similar here are some thoughts.


You definitely want to change the rubbers

The rubbers around the flippers is a pig to replace

Those flippers harbor rust

OG sliders are good - I replaced all rubbers and the 3 flippers with 2 OG sliders and a rear solid

Aftermarket sliders are notorious for leaking - may not be a problem in the desert 

New solid glass doesn't always fit


I would replace the rear driver with solid.


The sliding door I would try and get an OG slider window.

Failing that an aftermarket.


Failing that I have a flipper you can have for postage

---

Cheers Barry.

Took a quick squizz when I got home.

Amazing what you notice when you look.

The drivers rear looks pretty ordinary....

   
Definitely leaking...

   

Anyone  got a drivers rear solid glass?

Then I found that the passenger rear is also solid already so will just get a new rubber. And the sliding door has a flipper.

[ATTACH=full]66551[/ATTACH]

Think that one will need TLC or maybe replacement.

---

I'd go sliders on the middle two and solid in the rear, I've got genuine VW brazil sliders on three ,as they only do three(like the three 1/4 windows) Had no issues with leaking, been to Maleny was a good test. Personally 1/4 windows are a complete pain in to  assemble and getting them in and getting top quality rubber for them that isn't to short on the corners is a big problem as well.

I did buy a new rear solid glass from a Qld supplier ,can't remember which one (few restos on since then 12 years ago) pig to get in. sometimes getting original glass without scratches sometimes not easy.

---

Thanks Wayne.

If the ¼ in the side door can't be resurrected I think a slider might be the way to go. The drivers back definitely needs to be a solid. Will try to reach out to a couple of the local guys I know who can hopefully put me on to one. Not too worried if it's not in great condition.  After all it's a resurrection not a restoration. 

I'm no good with bright shiny things... I scratch em!

Would be awesome if I could get one with the right date though... how good would that be!

---

At about $260 ,including rubbers , jk sliders are a nice option when sleeping in van.

---

Picking up a solid rear window this weekend.

And a good bloke on here is helping me out with parts for the flipper in the sliding door so will restore that for now and maybe put a slider in it later if I need the change.

I know what you mean about the sliders Col but I want to put fixed windows down the back for dust sealing. We go a lot of places where there is a dusty track to get to camp. I'm not really restoring her but I will be sorting as much of the sealing as possible. Especially at the back where the most always gets sucked in.

---

Can understand that 

[Cbus]

Not sure where this will land , but don't buy any klokkenholm parts for doglegs or steps.
They are unuseable.
For front outer valance the clocks are only part available as far as I'm aware.
There's 2 options for the inner.
The klokk is a one peice and usable
The other is a pommy part ,cant recall make, its better but also needs left and right lower A pillar kits to meet A pillars. Not cheap.

[Wombatventures]

Got one, although it's definitely going on the passengers side, and that one will swap to the drivers. I'm doing all new widow seals anyway.

   

This could be why the swapsies....

   

Thanks to the Legendary Keith Poole.

Got another one to pick up from another local VW legend as well!

---

Not sure where this will land , but don't buy any klokkenholm parts for doglegs or steps.
They are unuseable.
For front outer valance the clocks are only part available as far as I'm aware.
There's 2 options for the inner.
The klokk is a one peice and usable
The other is a pommy part ,cant recall make, its better but also needs left and right lower A pillar kits to meet A pillars. Not cheap.

Thanks Col,
Lower nose panel is coming from Mick Motors, not sure of its manufacture.
Hoping to get a pillars from Volksday on here.
Will do patches for the rest. Need to get back in practice if I'm ever gunna get all my projects back on the road.

---

So today's achievements. If they can be called that.

After Playing with my plasma cutter. I shaped a piece to fit the sill panel in front of the drivers rear wheel arch. Haven't done much panel work for a few years so had to fabricate a sheet shaper to fit on my cutting bench.

...
   
   

Bit of CAD and a trim and looks like it will fit when I get to the cutting body stage...

   
   

Followed that up by cleaning the crap out of the panel with a good blow out with the air compressor. There's a hole in the inner guard where it covers the end of the sill that will need a patch as well. Will make that up when I get to cutting and welding.

Question time...

What have others used inside the panel to treat surface rust?

Once I cut out the section I plan on trying a wire wheel to tidy up inside and then was thinking a good soak with rust converter.  Then need to look at a sealant inside to keep the oxidation  at bay or slowed down. Will need to do the whole inside of this panel from the top down as the flipper window has leaked.

[Wombatventures]

Mid afternoon I got to where I roughly wanted with the panel bits and got on with another part of the job I have to get sorted by August.

Back to brakes...

Next trip to the big smoke I want to have all of the brake cylinders and master cylinder to drop off at PBR.

So cracked the rear wheel nuts and loosened the hub nuts. Got the back half up on the jack stands and removed the passenger rear tyre for the first time since Bec bought the Kombi. The tyre has heaps of tread. And is a recap... how bloody old is that! And is cracked to buggery! So I'll get that tyre taken off the rims this week so I can clean it up and get it painted.

Got the rear drum off. Looks good....

   
   

and the pads look pretty good too!

   

Yes I will put new pads all round...

The cylinders don't look terrible...

   

See what the brake guys say when I drop them off.

Took a good look underneath the guard after I blew away all the cobwebs and a bit of dust.

Small amount of surface rust no holes most of the underside is pretty good.

   


plan on a good clean-up underneath. A rust treatment then a good coat of underbody sealant.

Any recommendations?

---

Hi Terry.


Any phosphoric acid/rust converter & a good rinse & then Fish Oil... Fish Oil.... Fish Oil.!


But I'm sure others here have their preferences.


[USER=208405]@Wayne murray[/USER] for the under guard coating.



Cheers,

David

---

I normally use rust converter, definitely gunna spray some around inside this panel for now.

The other day I saw the Guys on Skid Factory using Metal Rescue. I'm going to try that on some old Holden parts I need to do. Might try it on the kombi too if it's good.

---

June 30
Had a few minutes to spare tonight so decided to have another look at getting the master cylinder off. That's when I realised that the guard around the unit is not a fixed panel but has 4 screws holding it on! Cracked them then was about to go get a socket set when I remembered that this was on the wall of the carport...

   

Plate removed in a couple of minutes and brake line nuts soaking in penetrant till tomorrow.

For future me and anyone else's reference....

This panel comes off! 

   

---

A sandblaster is an extremely satisfying toy for cleaning crud and rust.

The 20 litre ones from trade tools at about $180 are suitable but can take some fiddling g with to get continuous usage.

Best bet tho.

Gravity hand held are ok for very small jobs but very slow. Still useful but limited.


You will need at least 300 lpm to run the large blaster.

Same cfm as needed for running 6" random orbital sanders.


Blasting media is usually overpriced.

I pay $18.50 per 25kg bag for fine crushed glass.

The finer stuff goes through blaster better and also gives a better profile.

Works as fast or faster than any coarser media.

I'll dig up the profile sizes.

Clean river sand works ok but wear a carbon filter mask.

It also has to be ABSOLOUTELY dry and sifted to remove any big particles.

( shadecloth or mossie screen )

Don't be tempted to use fine paving sand in bags.

It creates rapid rusting.


Most of this you will already know , but for completeness..

Follow up is phosphoric acid on clean or mild surface rust. Be sure to rinse well.

If acid dries before rinsing, re treat with fresh acid and rinse.

I leave it an hr or more to ensure a grey phosphated surface.


Each product seems to have a slightly different method that suits.

My current product of choice is Ranex

which I leave overnight and it turns black and flakey.

I then blast back to clean metal having ensured no rust in hidden crevices and pits .

The blasted surface is good for adhesion of an epoxy primer.

Zinc epoxy is not recommended over phosphoric treated or gal steel  but is ok if its been blasted again as per my method.

Zinc primer is not essential but is good on untreated bare steel.


For rusted places that cannot be successfully cleaned up  I degrease and rinse, then wet on wet with tannic acid rust convertor. Something like Fertan.

Doesn't need rinsing but only works on rust.

It needs to have a seal coat of something to keep moisture off.

Once dried i would use penetrol as a sealant( 2 coats min) in hard to reach cavities where you want a non tacky surface or one that is paintable later.

Alternative is tectyl 506.where its getting no further finishing.

Penetrol is an alkyd so will not take gp solvents.

It will cope with alkyd enamels after 24 hrs or epoxies after a week as long as no gp thinners in the epoxy.


For accessible areas can use either acid depending on surface prep.

Then a suitable paint, penetrol ,POR15 or tectyl.


My preference is blast what you can , phosphoric acid and reblast . Epoxy or POR15.

Then tectyl after outer skin has been attached.

One advantage of POR15 or its Aussie equivalent ,KBS Coatings  is that it tacks off fairly rapidly for recording with another paint or a second coat ,which it usually needs to ensure coverage. Especially on edges or high points.

Makes for faster process .

It has good capillary action so I consider it a good faster curing form of penetrol.

Good for seams.

Work in with a brush then wipe excess off with a rag and turns of wax n grease remover.


POR15 will only stick to a rough surface.

ie , not over paint.

Light sandblasting, sanding existing rust are all suitable substrates.


Edit..

Lanolin is good for holding rust on parts that move/ need lubrication or areas that will need separation later such as window rubber seals.

Easily removed later with degreaser if necessary.

---

July 1
Beware Cbus... I may need to pick your brains on this further. I use Ranex a fair bit, it's a good product. Was thinking of coating the whole underside in POR15 once I get it cleaned up.

---

POR15 works well but you must make sure than your top coat is applied before it has hardened to ensure a good bond.

Not UV stable unless protected with a top coat.

PR

[Wombatventures]

And now I'm up to yesterday. 
First job get the master cylinder out. Had 2 out of 3 lines loose during the week. Popped the reservoir out of the top. Need seals for that next. The last line wouldn't budge so wiggled and pulled it out through the frame from where I'd already disconnected it at the other end. And then got it undone in the vice! Yay.
   
Still pumps fluid so should be ok for a rebuild.
Then got on to passenger rear hub and pulled out the wheel cylinder. 
Went around to drivers side... note to self... crack hub nut before putting kombi up on stands!
Put kombi back down, cracked hub nuts and wheel nuts, put kombi back up on stands.
Reminder to self, fix the f'n trolley jack. This using a bottle jack is tedious!
Now find the hub won't come off so lubricated the adjuster and will try today!

[Wombatventures]

Backed the adjuster off, couple of loosening taps with the rubber mallet and ping. Off she came.
Drums dirty but plenty of life still...
   
15 or more years of sitting...
   
So the bus has officially no brakes now. As the handbrake cables are attached to nothing, the brake pads etc are in boxes in the draw, and the master cylinder and rear wheel cylinders are in a box ready to visit PBR. Will get the front brakes stripped down during the week.
Started a little side project this arvo...
   
Do I start a thread or put it in the What did you do to your non-kombi VW or other car today? thread?