Hi,

I have noticed that IINET and old Netspace addresses (hosted by IINET) do not seem to be able to receive emails from this forum at the moment.  It may be just my experience but a number of other email addresses work fine. 

If you have one of these addresses and it works for you can you post it here.

Also, with the signatures if you use a quote " or other symbols in the text it may give a 403 error.  May be other characters as well, but I have tried a few and haven't had the same problem.

Thanks

Adrian

If you have an issue with a fuel smell at the rear of or in your Kombi then there are possible causes.

1st thing is to understand the connections for the inlet and fuel vapour system ..... the following diagram sets these out:

   

Further detailed information on these is also available at https://ratwell.com/technical/FuelHoses.html

Fuel hoses rot/perish from the inside and also the exterior and thus it's best to be thorough in any examination and if unsure then best to replace.

Contrary to some beliefs there should be NO smell of fuel from well maintained fuel lines - inlet, vapour and delivery to engine 

Post from original forum as PDF


  How to replace centre pin for steering. _1 KombiClub Australia Forums.pdf (Size: 1.96 MB / Downloads: 15)
  How to replace centre pin for steering. _2 KombiClub Australia Forums.pdf (Size: 1.8 MB / Downloads: 5)
  How to replace centre pin for steering. _3 KombiClub Australia Forums.pdf (Size: 1.12 MB / Downloads: 5)
  How to replace centre pin for steering. _4 KombiClub Australia Forums.pdf (Size: 1.5 MB / Downloads: 4)

Attached Files

  How to replace centre pin for steering. _5 KombiClub Australia Forums.pdf (Size: 1.43 MB / Downloads: 3)
  How to replace centre pin for steering. _6 KombiClub Australia Forums.pdf (Size: 1.69 MB / Downloads: 2)
  How to replace centre pin for steering. _7 KombiClub Australia Forums.pdf (Size: 1.93 MB / Downloads: 6)
  How to replace centre pin for steering. _8 KombiClub Australia Forums.pdf (Size: 1.69 MB / Downloads: 3)

here is the original article as a PDF


  Removing Alternator _ 1 KombiClub Australia Forums.pdf (Size: 1.95 MB / Downloads: 6)
  Removing Alternator _2 KombiClub Australia Forums.pdf (Size: 941.37 KB / Downloads: 0)
  Removing Alternator _ 3 KombiClub Australia Forums.pdf (Size: 1.84 MB / Downloads: 0)
  Removing Alternator _4 KombiClub Australia Forums.pdf (Size: 400.37 KB / Downloads: 0)
  Removing Alternator _ Page 2 _ KombiClub Australia Forums.pdf (Size: 551.11 KB / Downloads: 1)

Courtesy of LuckyPhil:

Found this on TheSamba

https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=701391

Courtesy of Adrian (Mordred)

   

This is my recommended way to connect up the Tachometric relay for an electric fuel pump. 

The extra relay is to reduce the load on the ignition switch which is already carrying the head light power feed,
the ignition ,the solenoid valves, choke elements in the carburettors as well as anything else added to the ignition circuit. 
The ignition circuit to the coil is not fused so the added relay enables you to at least fuse the pump and solenoid. 
The fuel shut off solenoid is also recommended as the original mechanical pump would not let fuel flow past it when not operating, unlike most electric pumps. 
With the bus on a hill there are only the needle valves stopping fuel from flooding into the carbs and into the engine ..........and eventually the sump. 
The Peel CP30 is one type, but most are very similar in design and this system will still work. 
Note that this unit will start the pump for a few seconds when the ignition is first turned on to help prime the carbs.

check list when buying print & take it with you - Courtesy TTMK

Quote:QUESTIONS TO ASK YOURSELF: 
Why am I buying this car 
Will it be my commute vehicle 
What service and support is locally available hey you have the kombi club 
Will I be driving it year-round or summer only 
Do I want to work on the car more than driving it 
Am I willing to be a LOYAL KOMBI CLUB MEMBER haha gotcha now  

Always inspect/take delivery of the vehicle in the broad daylight, 
never in the evening/night or in the rain. 

Arrange to inspect the bus at a time when the engine will be stone 
cold so you can hear any abnormal noises and check how it starts 
A general guide to reading exhaust smoke: 
Black smoke = unburned fuel 
Blue smoke = burning oil 

When the engine is warm hold you foot on the throttle for at lease 3 mins and check if any blue smoke is evident out of the exhaust ALSO AT THE SAME TIME PUT THE HEADLIGHTS ON AND SEE IF THEY GET BRIGHTER WHEN REV'S INCREASED QUICKEST WAY TO SEE IF THE CHARGING SYSTEM IS WORKING 

Try and find out some history on the vehicle 
eg original owner books reciepts and repairs maintenance records , parts catalogs, club newsletters
Any interesting history 

EXTERIOR WALK-AROUND: 

OK Not-OK 
___ _____ Check door edges and underside for rust/tears 
___ _____ Check doors/hinges for stress/tears 
___ _____ Doors/hoods open/close freely? Rubs? 
___ _____ Driver's door / passenger door / sliding door / rear hatch / 
___ _____ Is anything obviously broken 
___ _____ Are lights cracked, dented or broken 
___ _____ Car sits level? (view from all sides) 
___ _____ Are bumpers dinged Loose Level 
___ _____ Paint OK All panels same shade Cracks Overspray on rubbers 
___ _____ Any of the trim or hubcaps rusty or missing 
___ _____ New paint Why Any body ripples 
___ _____ Rust/repair on body 
___ _____ Any bog or filler use a (magnet) 
___ _____ Lift rubber mat in front door step. Rusty Holes 
___ _____ Rubber parts and seals condition Cracked 
___ _____ tools eg jack and spare tyre 
___ _____ Tires: Tread Bulges Cracks rim condition  

UNDERSIDE floor pan: GET UNDER THE KOMBI 

Shine a torch under the vehicle  
Start at front of bus and work back. 

OK Not-OK 

___ _____ Have friend turn steering wheel: does it feel tight or loose on one side ? 
 
___ _____ Look at underside of front door steps, body lip forward of front wheels: any rust? 
___ _____ Any underbody/floor pan rust 
___ _____ Any front panel or wheel well rust ?
                  Check particularly in  entire vertical area immediately behind each front wheel.
                  Pay special attention to inside of wheel arches panels, sliding doors/bottom of doors 
___ _____ Are main frame members rusted Jack points 
___ _____ Is heater hose from heater boxes in place and intact 
___ _____ Anything dented Bent Welded
___ _____ Any evidence of ground clearance damage 
___ _____ Any leaks from transmission or differential 
___ _____ Constant velocity joint boots 
___ _____ Any oil leaks from engine
___ _____ All lower engine tin in place
___ _____ condition of heater boxes muffler 
___ _____ Look for rust under battery tray(s). 
___ _____ Tire wear even 
___ _____ All shocks & struts damp OK Any leaks

IN ENGINE BAY COMPARTMENT 

OK Not-OK 
___ _____ Anything broken or leaking  
___ _____ Is engine clean Any rust
___ _____ All engine compartment seals in place
___ _____ Check oil level. AND COLOUR

___ _____ alt . gen Belt cracked
___ _____ Fuel lines stiff cracked wet

INTERIOR/ELECTRICAL: 

OK Not-OK 

___ _____ Is anything broken or torn
___ _____ is wiring a mess under the dash / any thing dangling  
___ _____ Headlining ok 
___ _____ Carpets OK rubber matting ok  
___ _____ Rust, under the carpets 
___ _____ All lights/ accessories work/ lenses cracked /warning lights  
___ _____ Seats dirty or torn /check if sagging  
___ _____ Do both seats adjust seat belts work 
___ _____ Dash cracked 
___ _____ Windshield cracked Chips
____ ____ open all windows and then close them same with doors /locks 

(CAMPER ONLY): 

___ _____ All cabinetry in good condition? All doors/drawers lock closed securely? 
___ _____ stove / fridge operation  
___ _____ canvas in roof torn and roof opens / closes ok 
___ _____ Camping lights work 
___ _____ LPG cylinder in date 
___ _____ Check all curtains.  
___ _____ Sliding door runs smoothly Latches/unlatches 
___ _____ Sink pump works


TEST DRIVE 
___ _____ take note of km reading odometer needle operation 
___ _____ Test the foot and hand brakes first! 
___ _____ Relax, drive a bit to get used to it. 
___ _____ How does car ride Soft or hard 
___ _____ Revs smoothly flatspots  
___ _____ Any unusual engine noises/vibrations 
___ _____ Any drive train noises or vibrations  
___ _____ Reverse works
___ _____ Trans shifts smoothly to all gears 
___ _____ Any clunks, whines, rumbles, rattles 
___ _____ Clutch smooth Slippage on hill test 
___ _____ Hand brake works Test against engine 
___ _____ Brakes check from 60 km/hr 
___ _____ Stops in straight line 
___ _____ Make 2 tight 360' turns each way. Any noises 
___ _____ Drive beside a long wall. Any unusual sounds 
___ _____ Any noises or vibrations when accelerating 
___ _____ Any noises or vibrations when decelerating 
___ _____ Any noises or vibrations when braking 
___ _____ Accelerate in all gears does it pop out of any gear  
___ _____ Steering action loose or tight
___ _____ Tracks straight with hands off steering wheel 
___ _____ Does the heater, defroster work  
___ _____ Any exhaust, gas or other smells in the cabin 
___ _____ Turn it off. Go back to check ground for leaks. 

*************************************************************
make sure it does have a clear title from owner ring security register in your state (REVS Check)
 THIS IS ESSENTIAL BEFORE HANDING OVER ANY MONEY

NOW GO AND BUY IT YAHOOOOOOOOOOOO !!!
and if your not a Kombi Club AUSTRALIA member, ask yourself why not !!!!

Courtesy of Club VW....Lots of great info. here:

https://www.clubvw.org.au/vwreference/

Courtesy of Club VW :

http://www.clubvw.org.au/vwpaint[url=http://www.clubvw.org.au/vwpaint][/url]

Plenty of other useful info. to be found on the left hand side/tabs too.

Here’s a useful guide written by Simon Baxter for the UK market, but most is also relevant to inspecting a T3 anywhere.

A handy checklist, to print out and take with you, when inspecting a prospective purchase. 

https://web.archive.org/web/201502211225...fo/buy.htm