Courtesy of Cbus (Col):
A lot of poptops could do with some degree of repair or refurbishment.
Hopefully the following may help.
Its not hard if a bit if care is taken & results are directly proportional to care at each stage.

This is assuming a full refurbishment. Minor repairs can be done in situ.

1. Remove poptop. 
Create suitable stands so you can work at a comfortable height and poptop is supported "square".

2. Separate the sections and remove all trim and sealants.
Degrease and scrub ,rinse well.

Most likely any chipboard stiffeners will be deteriorating. Regardless, take photos to guide reassembly and remove chipboard.
Use these to cut new ones from a solid timber that will provide better strength for attachments.

SANDING FIBREGLASS.
The dust is a strong irritant.
You will itch for days if exposed and its bad for the lungs and eyes.
Wear a full disposable paper overall set and wear mask and goggles.
Silicone rubber masks are better than paper dust masks.
Ski type goggles are better for vision and comfort
You are going to need all of this for the spraying anyway so invest.
Cotton hoods are also good and comfortable.

If you do get itchy ,shower in cold water . prevents pores opening.

3. Dry sand inner with a random orbital sander using an interface pad and 120-180 grit sandpaper. 6" palm sander is good if you have a compressor that delivers closer to 300l/min.
Grey or beige aluminium oxide papers are pretty useless. blue or green ones are different and they last much longer and cut better. Especially when dealing with epoxy resins.

The aim underneath is to key the surface for a coat of epoxy and cloth. Doesn't need to be smooth but needs to be clean and hopefully around 80% or more scratched up.

For top / gelcoat. Same deal except you want it smooth and all sanded. Don't bother with sanding finer than 180dry.
You may be able to sand this without the overalls if there is no exposed fibre. Use mask tho.

4.Wipe down with a damp rag to remove dust and fibre.
Dispose rags by wrapping in old plastic bags.
Hose down work area.

Ensure all moisture is dried out of any exposed fibre or cracks.
Rinsing with acetone will absorb water. Blow out with compressed air.
Dry in the sun for a week if unsure.

5. REPAIRING DAMAGE.

For fine cracks a quality superglue is easy. You will be also sandwiching both surfaces and this gives added strength.

For cracks all way through:
You can saturate with the broken edges with mixed resin and clamp or use superglue. 
Ensure top is sitting square and everything lines up
To beef up the join, scarf out about 25% thickness both sides and build up with layers of resin and cloth to original level.
Usualy scarfing would be a 7:1 ratio. In this case I would go a minimum of 25mm each side of crack on each face.

Most poptops are flimsy and irregular.
You will need to decide what finish you want.
Personally I would repair any damage and cracks then apply a minimum 100gsm ( could go heavier if desired. Up to maybe 190gsm. ) layer of woven cloth using epoxy resins.
This will help stiffen the top as well as sandwich any cracks.
New stiffeners can be glued in place with a firm paste made of epoxy resin filled with glue powder.
Details of use later
Alternately a good bond with sika will do.
Epoxy glue will prob be cheaper.

6. Glass the timbers in with a layer or two of 190gsm cloth.
190gsm woven cloth does not go around tight internal curves easily.
Usual method is radius all sharp edges to about same as 5 or 10 cent piece.
Fillet ( fill) inside corners with a glue powder mix.
Work in with brush.

7. Saturate the exposed edges of top to seal fibres.

Large crushed areas are treated same as cracks except done as a whole surface.
In this case grind off one surface so that you can saturate the core with an epoxy mix.
It may help to add up to 15% acetone to reduce viscosity and help saturation.
Once the resin has firmed but still tacky, apply another coat of resin ( it will be a fresh lot as working time is temp dependent but usualy less than 8 minutes.)
Immediately work in successive layers of cloth to about level to finished surface or a bit under.
Repeat other side.

You need to distinguish between fractures and stress cracks in the gelcoat that are caused by rough handling and hammering during removal from mold.
Such stress cracks are not structural. They often resemble spider webs with s point of impact being obvious.
The only issue with these is they can delelop thru a new cost of paint.
For this reason I would suggest a good physical key and at least a layer of 80gsm with resin before priming.

Finish the underneath as you wish but it is usualy a rough finish of chopped matt.

If just doing a repair underneath and not a full layer of woven cloth then chopped strand will better match existing surface.
Tear the edge to blend rather than cut with scissors.

I would also consider a full layer of woven on top surface. Probably 100gsm.


METHOD.
Epoxy laminating resin is a 2 part product.
Resin and hardener.
Use mixing cups to measure.
Different resins have different ratios so familiarise fully with the product chosen.
ALLWAYS download a TDS on any product.
It gives usefull info.

Typically can be from 1-1 to 4-1.
Closer ratios usualy superior but not critical for our use.
For this purpose same for brands.

Reaction is quite temp dependent.
Keep contents cool as practical.
A litre and 500ml mixing cup are a good start. Start with small mixes as you only have 5-8 minutes at about 25C.
Don't continue to use once it starts to thicken or gell.

Be accurate in measuring.

Once mixed put in a shallow container such as 4litre ice cream container. The reaction is exothermic (gives off heat..) 
Shallow container allows dissipation of heat. If heat builds then working time is considerably reduced.
It can also get hot enough to cause ignition.
DO NOT dump in waste bin or allow rags soaked in mix to sit in a pile. Can cause fire.
Safe once reaction completed and cooled.

Pays to wear disposable gloves. Some people sensitive to resins.
If on skin don't wash off with acetone or thinners. These enter bloodstream quite effectively via skin.
Wash with vinegar then rinse with water.
The vinegar breaks down the resin very effectively.

Use in a ventilated area.
Concentrated vapour can kill.

If necessary ,thinning is between 5-15%.
Washing tools is with acetone.
Allow to harden in plastic containers and it can be pulled out.

Work in limited areas till familiar with use.
Cut cloth to size before mixing resin.
I usualy apply a thin surface of resin and bed the cloth into it . Applying more resin as needed to ensure cloth is saturated.
When saturated it will be clear. No signs of white fibres.
Use squeegee to remove as much resin as practical.
The less resin to cloth ratio the stronger the job.

If difficult to fit or work into corners you can allow the first coat of resin to tack of and it will hold the cloth in place. Allow another 1/4 hour then saturate with next coat and squeegee excess.

If building layers stick to 2 at a time. 
To many in one hit gets difficult to squeegee out plus builds too much heat.
Wait until firm but still tacky and apply more.

If it has hardened overnight it will usualy have an amine blush.
This feels slimy to the touch.
Wipe with acetone then lightly sand prior to following coats.

It must be cleaned and sanded before filling or painting.

One exception is by spreading a light skim of mixed epoxy resin and Q cells or microlight over a cured but still tacky resin. Usualy a hour or few hours after resin applied.
This gives an easily sanded surface ready for painting.
Additional filler can go straight over if needed.

Q cells and microlight are filler powders that are added to micedvresin to form a filler like bog.
The more powder in the mix the easier it is to sand.
Straight epoxy is very hard to sand.
Another method of easy prep for next process is using peel ply.
This is like fine curtain mesh that is squeegeed into last cost of resin.
Next day it is peeled off and removes extra resin along with amine plus leaves a rough finish ready for next process .

If sanding thru epoxy exposes cloth fibres they should be encapsulated with some fresh resin before proceeding.

Epoxy resin is completely waterproof. Sanded filler should have a coat of resin applied and if desired squegeed off to leave a seal.

Same applies to the top if you choose not to apply a layer of cloth.
A layer of resin that is then squeegeed off and allowed to go till still retaining a dry tac is good for next coat of epoxy primer.
Not essential tho.
Epoxy primer can go straight over the sanded surface. 

(04-07-2022, 10:20 AM)Oldman Wrote: Courtesy of Cbus (Col):
A lot of poptops could do with some degree of repair or refurbishment.
Hopefully the following may help.
Its not hard if a bit if care is taken & results are directly proportional to care at each stage.

This is assuming a full refurbishment. Minor repairs can be done in situ.

1. Remove poptop. 
Create suitable stands so you can work at a comfortable height and poptop is supported "square".

2. Separate the sections and remove all trim and sealants.
Degrease and scrub ,rinse well.

Most likely any chipboard stiffeners will be deteriorating. Regardless, take photos to guide reassembly and remove chipboard.
Use these to cut new ones from a solid timber that will provide better strength for attachments.

SANDING FIBREGLASS.
The dust is a strong irritant.
You will itch for days if exposed and its bad for the lungs and eyes.
Wear a full disposable paper overall set and wear mask and goggles.
Silicone rubber masks are better than paper dust masks.
Ski type goggles are better for vision and comfort
You are going to need all of this for the spraying anyway so invest.
Cotton hoods are also good and comfortable.

If you do get itchy ,shower in cold water . prevents pores opening.

3. Dry sand inner with a random orbital sander using an interface pad and 120-180 grit sandpaper. 6" palm sander is good if you have a compressor that delivers closer to 300l/min.
Grey or beige aluminium oxide papers are pretty useless. blue or green ones are different and they last much longer and cut better. Especially when dealing with epoxy resins.

The aim underneath is to key the surface for a coat of epoxy and cloth. Doesn't need to be smooth but needs to be clean and hopefully around 80% or more scratched up.

For top / gelcoat. Same deal except you want it smooth and all sanded. Don't bother with sanding finer than 180dry.
You may be able to sand this without the overalls if there is no exposed fibre. Use mask tho.

4.Wipe down with a damp rag to remove dust and fibre.
Dispose rags by wrapping in old plastic bags.
Hose down work area.

Ensure all moisture is dried out of any exposed fibre or cracks.
Rinsing with acetone will absorb water. Blow out with compressed air.
Dry in the sun for a week if unsure.

5. REPAIRING DAMAGE.

For fine cracks a quality superglue is easy. You will be also sandwiching both surfaces and this gives added strength.

For cracks all way through:
You can saturate with the broken edges with mixed resin and clamp or use superglue. 
Ensure top is sitting square and everything lines up
To beef up the join, scarf out about 25% thickness both sides and build up with layers of resin and cloth to original level.
Usualy scarfing would be a 7:1 ratio. In this case I would go a minimum of 25mm each side of crack on each face.

Most poptops are flimsy and irregular.
You will need to decide what finish you want.
Personally I would repair any damage and cracks then apply a minimum 100gsm ( could go heavier if desired. Up to maybe 190gsm. ) layer of woven cloth using epoxy resins.
This will help stiffen the top as well as sandwich any cracks.
New stiffeners can be glued in place with a firm paste made of epoxy resin filled with glue powder.
Details of use later
Alternately a good bond with sika will do.
Epoxy glue will prob be cheaper.

6. Glass the timbers in with a layer or two of 190gsm cloth.
190gsm woven cloth does not go around tight internal curves easily.
Usual method is radius all sharp edges to about same as 5 or 10 cent piece.
Fillet ( fill) inside corners with a glue powder mix.
Work in with brush.

7. Saturate the exposed edges of top to seal fibres.

Large crushed areas are treated same as cracks except done as a whole surface.
In this case grind off one surface so that you can saturate the core with an epoxy mix.
It may help to add up to 15% acetone to reduce viscosity and help saturation.
Once the resin has firmed but still tacky, apply another coat of resin ( it will be a fresh lot as working time is temp dependent but usualy less than 8 minutes.)
Immediately work in successive layers of cloth to about level to finished surface or a bit under.
Repeat other side.

You need to distinguish between fractures and stress cracks in the gelcoat that are caused by rough handling and hammering during removal from mold.
Such stress cracks are not structural. They often resemble spider webs with s point of impact being obvious.
The only issue with these is they can delelop thru a new cost of paint.
For this reason I would suggest a good physical key and at least a layer of 80gsm with resin before priming.

Finish the underneath as you wish but it is usualy a rough finish of chopped matt.

If just doing a repair underneath and not a full layer of woven cloth then chopped strand will better match existing surface.
Tear the edge to blend rather than cut with scissors.

I would also consider a full layer of woven on top surface. Probably 100gsm.


METHOD.
Epoxy laminating resin is a 2 part product.
Resin and hardener.
Use mixing cups to measure.
Different resins have different ratios so familiarise fully with the product chosen.
ALLWAYS download a TDS on any product.
It gives usefull info.

Typically can be from 1-1 to 4-1.
Closer ratios usualy superior but not critical for our use.
For this purpose same for brands.

Reaction is quite temp dependent.
Keep contents cool as practical.
A litre and 500ml mixing cup are a good start. Start with small mixes as you only have 5-8 minutes at about 25C.
Don't continue to use once it starts to thicken or gell.

Be accurate in measuring.

Once mixed put in a shallow container such as 4litre ice cream container. The reaction is exothermic (gives off heat..) 
Shallow container allows dissipation of heat. If heat builds then working time is considerably reduced.
It can also get hot enough to cause ignition.
DO NOT dump in waste bin or allow rags soaked in mix to sit in a pile. Can cause fire.
Safe once reaction completed and cooled.

Pays to wear disposable gloves. Some people sensitive to resins.
If on skin don't wash off with acetone or thinners. These enter bloodstream quite effectively via skin.
Wash with vinegar then rinse with water.
The vinegar breaks down the resin very effectively.

Use in a ventilated area.
Concentrated vapour can kill.

If necessary ,thinning is between 5-15%.
Washing tools is with acetone.
Allow to harden in plastic containers and it can be pulled out.

Work in limited areas till familiar with use.
Cut cloth to size before mixing resin.
I usualy apply a thin surface of resin and bed the cloth into it . Applying more resin as needed to ensure cloth is saturated.
When saturated it will be clear. No signs of white fibres.
Use squeegee to remove as much resin as practical.
The less resin to cloth ratio the stronger the job.

If difficult to fit or work into corners you can allow the first coat of resin to tack of and it will hold the cloth in place. Allow another 1/4 hour then saturate with next coat and squeegee excess.

If building layers stick to 2 at a time. 
To many in one hit gets difficult to squeegee out plus builds too much heat.
Wait until firm but still tacky and apply more.

If it has hardened overnight it will usualy have an amine blush.
This feels slimy to the touch.
Wipe with acetone then lightly sand prior to following coats.

It must be cleaned and sanded before filling or painting.

One exception is by spreading a light skim of mixed epoxy resin and Q cells or microlight over a cured but still tacky resin. Usualy a hour or few hours after resin applied.
This gives an easily sanded surface ready for painting.
Additional filler can go straight over if needed.

Q cells and microlight are filler powders that are added to micedvresin to form a filler like bog.
The more powder in the mix the easier it is to sand.
Straight epoxy is very hard to sand.
Another method of easy prep for next process is using peel ply.
This is like fine curtain mesh that is squeegeed into last cost of resin.
Next day it is peeled off and removes extra resin along with amine plus leaves a rough finish ready for next process .

If sanding thru epoxy exposes cloth fibres they should be encapsulated with some fresh resin before proceeding.

Epoxy resin is completely waterproof. Sanded filler should have a coat of resin applied and if desired squegeed off to leave a seal.

Same applies to the top if you choose not to apply a layer of cloth.
A layer of resin that is then squeegeed off and allowed to go till still retaining a dry tac is good for next coat of epoxy primer.
Not essential tho.
Epoxy primer can go straight over the sanded surface. 

Quote:EDIT. Would be wary about large or thick applications of bog, (fibreglass filler), due to the flexibility of the thin build of poptops.
Bog is likely to crack if flexed too much.
Might need to stiffen first with stiffening panels of sandwiched foam or light wood. Being careful about added weight affecting spring operation.
Stiffener sections would likely remove much of any sag in panels due to thin construction.

Can use a self levelling finishing bog over that if desired but its expensive.
High build epoxy is harder to sand than auto high builds but easily half the price. Just a maybe.
Final primer can be heavy wet on wet.
Poly U 400 is a common top coat for boats and busses etc. Better resistance to chalking than gelcoat.
Or go up a notch and use something like Jotun Imperite.
Hard as hell and still flexible.
Beats anything automotive.
Slow flash off as is necessary for doing boats ,trucks etc so good finish off the gun and no compounding.
Epoxy primer about $100 / 4l.kit.
Imperite. About $200-250 for 5l kit
Dedicated reducer approx $60/4l.
Just options.
 

Courtesy Torquenut :

I have had the 74 bus for 15 years. 
Recently noticed a lot of backfiring, and my brakes were fading. 
Basically needed to replace the master cylinder, (another story) and spent some time checking hoses and the One Way valve near the firewall. 

Those old hard plastic hoses have gotta go. 
I disconnected the vaccuum hose at the booster, and blew down the hose, (clean it first). 
You should have airflow in this direction. Then carefully apply vaccuum to the line. It can taste a bit yuck. If you have any leaks you can hear it. Basically you should not have any pressure loss at all. I had air going everywhere. 

So down to the hydraulics shop for 2 metres of 10mm air line, and a quick visit to our mechanic for a new one way valve (ours was not).

This is a simple job, you remove your old hard non-sealing hoses, measure them against your flash new hose, add an extra 15-30mmfor good measure, cut and refit with new hose clamps. 

My brakes are excellent, and the backfiring has stopped, now just a low grumble during decelleration.
 

Courtesy TTMK (Tommy):

Do you know when a mechanic says 'Hey changed your points '"she'l b right now mate " What the hell is talking about , what do they look like ? What they actually do in an engine i hope to answer some of these questions in simple terms . 

A picture of the distributor points 


So now you know where they are located inside the distributor what the hell do they do , ok up off your chair go to the nearest light switch turn it on 
yep the light comes on , now turn it off , this action you have just done by switching the light switch on is exactly what the distributor points do in an engine [they are a switch] 

In order to to understand i will give you a very basic introduction to the ignition system and why points perform such a vital function . 

A typical circuit of an ignition system and how it works 

A battery , an ignition switch is located in the circuit 
As we all know most vehicle run 12 volts and the ignition system is made up of two voltages a low voltage and a high voltage some times known as primary and secondary . 
The low voltage is 12 v the high is 20000v + how does 12v become 20000 v 
well the answer is simple a magnetic field is produce and amplified inside the ignition coil 
The ignition points inside the distributor switch this voltage on and off but very rapidly the shaft under the rotor button turns as the engine spins over 
the special shaft which locates the rotor button is square shaped it has high points and low points . as the rubbing block of the points makes contact with the shaft the high points open and the low points make the contacts shut .  
Hence this action is a switching action like you getting up to switch the lounge room light on . 
The path of voltage then comes out of the coil via the centre lead to the distributor cap where all the spark plug leads are in a special order ,attached to the distributor cap the rotor arm attached to the centre shaft spins also . sending the spark thru the cap then to leads , eventually working its way to the spark plug , the spark jumps across the plug gap igniting the fuel , hence we have lift off ! 
The main items that wear is the actual gap 
The brown rubbing block that contacts the centre shaft , this must be lubed with grease every time the points are changed , also a few drops of oil when the rotor arm is taken out . 
Once the points are changed the timing must be checked . 
 
The distributor 





The ignition coil 



The reason  why I have written this, is to let people know what they do and why they are so important in a tune up . 

I hope that I have hodoo'd out of what function they do in simple language .

Courtesy of Doc:

Quote:This will take a while...

Take interior lining off sliding door.
Photograph the positioning of cables as there are different flavours.

Remove rear locking mechanism.
Pull apart soak in petrol clean and lubricate.

Do the same for the front except with mine you couldn't pull apart so clean and lubricate best you can , reassemble

Next remove left rear window cover housing of rear roller mechanism repair clean and lubricate and reassemble.

Replace Rubber Seal around door 

Adjustment
Close the door completely and see how she hangs. If its low the bottom bracket needs more shims. I cut mine from an original. 
If its hanging Ok then check striker mechanisms. Start at the front. The striker plate can be adjusted three or four millimetres up, down, in, out and has shims to align... go carefully and slowly closing the door. Half tighten them and close door and they will "move to a good position.
If there is not enough adjustment then the tongue mechanism can be adjusted up down.

When you have the height of the door (lower roller) and front latch aligned, then go to the rear of the door and repeat process.
The striker plate has some adjustment and the latch has some adjustment. Slow careful alignment and adjustment will end you up with a door that closes with such precision you will have the whole neighbourhood come out and you can demonstrate it to them and they will admire it and want a go.

This is the complete way.
If your rubbers and rollers and mechanism are all ok, then just height, front, then rear adjustment.
My rear mechanism was just a little sticky and that was the problem with my sliding door having all the problems.
 

Queenslanders are more than welcome.

Official Start: Somerset Street Byron Bay - Gathering from 10:30am Departing at 12:30pm.
Saturday 17th September 2022

Sunshine Coast, Brisbane and Gold Coast pick-up points to be advised.
   

Queenslanders are more than welcome.

Official Start: Somerset Street Byron Bay - Gathering from 10:30am Departing at 12:30pm.
Saturday 17th September 2022

Sunshine Coast, Brisbane and Gold Coast pick-up points to be advised.
   

Watch video from 2009 here

This is a map of camping sites Australia-wide as recommended by Kombi Club members. Where possible, I have included links to the relevant thread and a picture of the site. Some also include Parks webpages or other relevant links - I intend to add more later.

Start planning your next trip! 

http://maps.google.com.au/maps/ms?i...683528,141.328125&spn=35.830469,61.171875&z=4[/url]


Please feel free to add any you have found 

(Courtesy of Woz)

I found this article from Snowy’s suppliers really helpful in gaining an understanding of how a 12v camping system works and how to determine your needs when camping.
Please note that it is general advice and a guide only.

https://www.snowys.com.au/blog/solar-formula-for-your-4wd-setup/?utm_source=ActiveCampaign&utm_medium=email&utm_content=Get prep d for Christmas with our 2021 Gift Guide!&utm_campaign=November 2021 - Weekly 4 - ALL&vgo_ee=hkPI9OCoCkN+h5/Ed6YDmXwFoqDlMHNmyq65fGLdufk=

It would be good to see this thread stay simple and not get unnecessarily bogged down with hypothetical scenarios…..it just confuses simple folk like me 

Have noticed on other Forums re changing colour of vinyl and carpets.
You have to use a carpet/vinyl dye not paint.
VHT is best brand but has been in short supply lately due to a factory fire.
Distributed by Speco Thomas.
Have used it on 5-6 Kombi seats, door and side panels as well as hoodlinings.
Read instructions and make sure surface is clean and free from grease.
Rub over gently with soft cloth after 24 hours.
The product is very good and was used by Ford Motor Co in original GT Falcons as they could not get black at time and dyed brown seats from Fairmont models .
You do not use PAINT on seats or door trims.
We have also tried other brands but no where near as good.

The Rod and Custom guys also use this very successfully and many restorers.

This is a repost of the original information that was on a website that has now been shut down.  The link to a copy on another site is below.

http://veedoubleu.com/air-cooled/type-2-...explained/



Type 2 (T2) Heating System Explained
My apologies in advance if this is a long scrolling page… it’s a long scrolling topic!
I refuse to drive anywhere wearing four pairs of socks, thermal undies, three jumpers and a woolly hat. That’s why one of my first priorities when we bought Daisy in 1998 was to get her heating sorted. None of it worked, so all of what follows is based on extensive personal experience. The reason why many people are so confused about this subject is that many vans are bought without an owner’s manual and neither the Haynes nor the Peter Russek VW Transporter manuals go anywhere near the amount of detail required for the average home mechanic to figure this out. In fact, most garages haven’t the faintest idea how the heating in an air-cooled beetle or van works – so be warned: you will be paying their hourly rate for them to teach themselves how!

In principle…
   
It works like this. Air is circulated around the heat exchangers which warm the air from heat off the exhaust manifolds. It is pushed towards the cab by both air pressure and at least one fan. That’s it! The diagram shows how…

However, please note that your van will be best served with an exhaust system that retains all of the above components, and performance of your van’s heating will be best improved using original equipment. I know that normally means ‘more expensive’, but the best things in life aren’t cheap but they’re worth it!

1. This is the fan, situated either on top of your engine if you have a 1600 or at the back if you have a 2ltr. They both do the same thing – suck the cold air which enters the engine bay from the rear body air intake vents, and blow it via a pair of concertina tubes into your heat exchangers. If your fan is broken or has broken blades or if the shroud is poorly fitted not only will your engine not be properly cooled, but your heating will suffer.



2. Heat exchanger schematic
   
The heat exchangers look like complicated exhaust boxes and when I bought some for my first beetle back in the early 80’s I hadn’t the faintest idea what these bloody expensive boxes were all about. Well they’re dead useful – the cool air from your fan is blown into them and circulates around an arrangement of fins heated via the red-hot exhaust manifolds. The air is then ejected out of the heat exchanger into the heater elbow. If your heat exchangers are rusted through anywhere, your heating will suffer.


   
3. The heater elbow is simply a mechanical valve which, when opened, allows the hot air from the heat exchangers to pass into your van. On the 2ltr engine the elbow is a separate part, on the 1600 it is integral to the heat exchanger. As illustrated in the diagram at right, when the valve is closed, the hot air simply escapes outside. The internal hinged flap is operated via a solid cable attached to the heater controls on your dashboard – more about them later. If the hinged flap in either heater elbow is rusted into position or just plain broken, your heating will suffer.

4. When the hot air reaches the central collector it is sent two ways: to the front of the van and to the rear via three small rear-facing vents on the floor between the two bulkhead halves. To my knowledge there has never been any lever to manage the flow of hot air to these vents, so on my van I have simply blocked off the tube that feeds these vents as, when I am driving, I want all the hot air in the cab. However, if you regularly take passengers, especially children, you may find these vents useful, but be aware that they are largely ineffective as you would require an additional in-line fan (or something similar) between the heater elbows and the collector to generate the amount of air pressure to heat the rear of the van to any noticeable extent whilst also heating the cab.

5. This is the wonderful bit, according to my wife! These are the two hot air vents located behind the kick panels (which should have pre-cut holes to fit around them) which keep our feet toasty warm even in the coldest weather. The vents are operated by a lever on the dashboard – more about that later. There’s also a manual slider on the heater tube that allows you to direct even more hot air into the cab floor. Remember, hot air rises, so if you have it all blowing onto your feet, it’ll eventually get to your face too!

6. Finally, the rest of the hot air exits via two pairs of vents in the top of your dashboard. Yes, contrary to popular opinion, they really do work! They are excellent windscreen de-misters and cab heaters. My Daisy has done almost 110,000 miles and is 27 years old and the last 30,000 miles has kept me warm in the worst weather. I’ve also been in the fortunate position of being able to regulate the heat because all the controls are now working, so I don’t bake in the summer!


Frank Wognum