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Repairing Windscreen Panel Rust in a Bay
#1
Courtesy Retro1:


Quote:Today I have taken the windscreen out of my 1975 baywindow due to the rust that is appearing under the window.
One of the first things I did was to order a new rubber seal from Roy.
This is a common problem in all kombi?s so I thought I would put a post on regarding this.
Tools I?ll need are 
Angle grinder/die grinder for small finer grinding 
Wire brushes (hand and electric )
Sharp knife or screw driver
Mig welder
Hammer and assorted panel beating tools
Files and sand paper
Spray painting equipment.

The first two pictures are of the rust as it was as soon as the window was removed.
You can see the spots of rust that are coming thru the panel just below the window line( pic 2).

[Image: baywindow006.jpg]


[Image: baywindow001.jpg]


The next picture is the rust cleaned up with wire brushes .This exposes even more rust and with the aid of the screwdriver and or knife I hit the metal along the channel to ensure that all the rust was found and hopefully prevent doing this again.


[Image: baywindow007.jpg]


This is the section that needs the most work this is the before picture.


[Image: baywindow004.jpg]
This piece is of a donor kombi ute that I cut up and have only laid over the top of the section that is to be replaced . It will need to be fitted properly latter. That is tomorrows job.

[Image: baywindow005.jpg]


The total time so far spent to this stage is approx 1 hour.
 
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#2
The next set of pics is the large rust hole in the drivers side.
I start at cutting a small hole then making it bigger, fitting the panel then welding . Be sure to spray any rust and blow away any metal filling as so the rust does not return.The black colur of the metal is the way it goes after rust converting.
The last picture is of the panel welded in with clean up to be done another day it was etch coated quickly to stop it rusting( the paint is still wet).
I think the best bit of advise is to take your time in cutting and fitting any bits.
It?s easy to cut it smaller than to cut it bigger.

[Image: baywindow020.jpg]

[Image: baywindow021.jpg]

[Image: baywindow022.jpg]

[Image: baywindow024.jpg]

The next step was to cut and curve a metal filler piece to go is the hole. This is done after grinding away the rust and then rust converting it. These photos show a step by step from start to under coating.
Time spent in total 6 hours for both of these holes. I still have a few more to do and think it will take about another 2-3 hours to finish.
A very big thanks to Dave ( Mr No van) for lending me his brand new light activated welding mask as I had the older style and will be buying a new one like his ASAP
If you have any questions feel free to ask via a PM or email
[Image: baywindow008.jpg]

[Image: baywindow009.jpg]

[Image: baywindow010.jpg]

[Image: baywindow011.jpg]

[Image: baywindow012.jpg]

[Image: baywindow014.jpg]
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#3
[Image: baywindow015.jpg]

[Image: baywindow017.jpg]

Quote:This is the last picture of the repaired section.

It still needs a little skim coating but it has come up pretty good.It is just undercoated and will be ready for final paint soon.

[Image: baywindow028.jpg] 
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#4
Just in time for me.....
Looks like I'll be following this when I start my de-rusting of my bus....
Cheers,
Mark
It’s not oil, it’s sweat from all the horsepower !  

Pit crew for : The Tardis - a ‘76 Sopru Campmobile
                   & Herman  - the ‘71 White Low Light
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