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Kombi Fires
#11
I've still got the mechanical fuel pump so it stops pumping fuel as soon as the engine stops. I've also bought all the parts for an electric fuel cutoff valve. As soon as you turn off the ignition, a valve shuts which stops fuel running out of the tank under gravity provided the fuel line between the tank and the valve isn't leaking.

Also got a long blazecut and two fire extinguishers...
Chris and Sharyn
1976 Campmobile Adventurer Deluxe 2L Automatic in Riverina Orange named Harry
1971 Kombi 8 Seat Manual in Flipper Blue named Layla
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#12
(29-12-2023, 12:53 PM)DavidH Wrote: I reckon it was a petrol fire (fuel line) as you can see even after it's out they still need to hose under the back where the fuel line is as it continues to burn there.
+1
As others have said, BlazeCut will be do an initial knockdown but may not be enough to extinguish the fire.

Of those members who have Dry Powder extinguishers, how many REGULARLY inspect and maintain them as per AS/NZS 1851?

PR
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#13
…….let alone have the experience/training to use them…..
It’s more than point and shoot .
Cheers,
Mark
It’s not oil, it’s sweat from all the horsepower !  

Pit crew for : The Tardis - a ‘76 Sopru Campmobile
                   & Herman  - the ‘71 White Low Light
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#14
(02-01-2024, 07:22 PM)KIWI Wrote: +1
As others have said, BlazeCut will be do an initial knockdown but may not be enough to extinguish the fire.

Of those members who have Dry Powder extinguishers, how many REGULARLY inspect and maintain them as per AS/NZS 1851?

PR

It's an 8 hour course if you want to be certified to inspect and certify yourself 
Also cheaper to buy a new one instead of having the old one retested when the use by date is up
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#15
For most people if you look at the pressure gauge and it is in the green that would be satisfactory.  As a minimum you should also take the dry powder ones out of the holder every 6 months, turn them upside down and hit them with a rubber hammer a few times to loosen the powder, as they vibrate down and wont work.  Best to do that outside as if you knock the pin out there is a risk of setting it off. 

I am one who does regularly inspect them (not a full service, just the check and tap) as I have been to a number of fire training workshops when working in an aviation role where amongst other things we saw the result of a pressurised but packed down dry powder.  Lots of noise but very little to no powder. 

Does anyone know the actual replacement age of a Blazecut?  They warrant them out to 5 years, so it may be the same as a Dry Powder extinguisher (which is 10 years before being serviced and/or replaced) and as there is no way of non destructive testing of them I would suggest it would be a replacement after that time.

I have used old out of date extinguishers to give my children experience in using them effectively and to show them what they are like to use. Many people have never used one and really don't understand  where they need to be aimed at and how long they last (not very long at all!)

Adrian
A new beginning. Big Grin +


1975 Kombi The Doctor
1976 Dual Cab Bumble Bee
1974 Microbus Matilda (parts bus)
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#16
Guessing the Blazecut life expectancy is determined the same way as a fire extinguisher........by making sure the pressure gauge is still in the green zone.
Vigilance is the key........complacency the downfall, as the saying goes.
Cheers,
Mark
It’s not oil, it’s sweat from all the horsepower !  

Pit crew for : The Tardis - a ‘76 Sopru Campmobile
                   & Herman  - the ‘71 White Low Light
Reply
#17
(03-01-2024, 08:29 AM)Mordred Wrote: For most people if you look at the pressure gauge and it is in the green that would be satisfactory.  As a minimum you should also take the dry powder ones out of the holder every 6 months, turn them upside down and hit them with a rubber hammer a few times to loosen the powder, as they vibrate down and wont work.  Best to do that outside as if you knock the pin out there is a risk of setting it off. 

I am one who does regularly inspect them (not a full service, just the check and tap) as I have been to a number of fire training workshops when working in an aviation role where amongst other things we saw the result of a pressurised but packed down dry powder.  Lots of noise but very little to no powder. 

Does anyone know the actual replacement age of a Blazecut?  They warrant them out to 5 years, so it may be the same as a Dry Powder extinguisher (which is 10 years before being serviced and/or replaced) and as there is no way of non destructive testing of them I would suggest it would be a replacement after that time.

I have used old out of date extinguishers to give my children experience in using them effectively and to show them what they are like to use. Many people have never used one and really don't understand  where they need to be aimed at and how long they last (not very long at all!)

Adrian

fire extinguishers have been reduced to 5 years for replacing or full service and testing
Blazecut say (in their FAQ) 10 year working life and only need to be replaced if showing damage or wear and tear
Not sure how that sits with NSW regs.
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#18
Sounds fair.  I might add that the gauge on the Blazecut is a not a definitive, as the pressure inside the tube changes with temperature.  At 10 degrees C it shows as no pressure at all, but get it up around 25 degrees C and it shows green happily.  A lot of you in warmer climes probably havent noticed. The point to make really is as long as you can see the liquid in the tube it should be fine. Once the pipe is opened to the air(burnt through) the liquid will turn to a gas and remove the oxygen from the source of heat.

Adrian
A new beginning. Big Grin +


1975 Kombi The Doctor
1976 Dual Cab Bumble Bee
1974 Microbus Matilda (parts bus)
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#19
(03-01-2024, 10:44 AM)Mordred Wrote: Sounds fair.  I might add that the gauge on the Blazecut is a not a definitive, as the pressure inside the tube changes with temperature.  At 10 degrees C it shows as no pressure at all, but get it up around 25 degrees C and it shows green happily.  A lot of you in warmer climes probably havent noticed. The point to make really is as long as you can see the liquid in the tube it should be fine. Once the pipe is opened to the air(burnt through) the liquid will turn to a gas and remove the oxygen from the source of heat.

Adrian

.....interesting....I wonder if there is a temperature range / caveat regarding the Green Zone....?
Certainly would throw those in cooler climes.
Cheers,
Mark
It’s not oil, it’s sweat from all the horsepower !  

Pit crew for : The Tardis - a ‘76 Sopru Campmobile
                   & Herman  - the ‘71 White Low Light
Reply
#20
(03-01-2024, 10:44 AM)Mordred Wrote: Once the pipe is opened to the air(burnt through) the liquid will turn to a gas and remove the oxygen from the source of heat.
Adrian

Not quite true.

The BlazeCut T series systems use HFC-227ea (1,1,1,2,3,3,3-Heptafluoropropane) as a fire agent.

HFC-227ea's mechanism of extinguishing fires is active. Its primary action is through physically cooling the fire at the molecular level. HFC-227ea belongs to the same class of compounds used in refrigeration, and as such is an efficient heat transfer agent. HFC-227ea literally removes heat energy from the fire to the extent that the combustion reaction cannot sustain itself.

Novec 1230 is a similar product but is being phased out due to containing a small amount of PFAS.
Novec 1230 demonstration video
PR
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