type 4 tinware non-return flap covers

[Crankster]

Hi, I'm slowly trying to sort out the tinware on the motor but have hit a bit of snag with the two covers that go over the non-return flaps either side of the fan duct outlets. The flaps are hinged on pins and the covers are left and right (viewed facing the engine. Their orientation is important as they're asymetrical. Also, they are straight and I've reused the pins but they seem to foul on the pins and wont sit flush. The edge that sits on the heatexchangers isn't a neat fit suggesting that maybe they had a gasket of some sort under them that would have given a proper seal and raised the plates clear of the hinge pins. I hope this all makes sense? I can't find any drawings or mention of them in any of the manuals nor any reference to a gasket of some sort. I never pulled these off the motor originally so have no idea what is or isn't missing.  Any thoughts appreciated. The image below is from another site but shows them as I believe they're meant to be oriented???      

[T1 Terry]

I'll probably upset the purists, but I sealed the flaps shut against the fan housing using silicon sealant. I don't use the heater because the smell gets a bit over the top after a while and it was never particularly warm anyway.

I tried using the electric fan to push warm air through to keep the window demisted, I tried carbon filters, those filter cartridges out of dust masks and a few other attempts at stopping the smell, in frustration I removed the heater baffle hoses that run from the exhaust heater assembly to the tubes that run under the floor .... and the smell stopped 

T1 Terry

[Oldman]

Your bus, do what you like…….
however, if there are fumes in the warm air, you have an exhaust leak and or oil dripping onto the heater boxes…..both can be fixed.
Kombi heaters, in my experience are toasty warm on cold days and operate efficiently if everything has been maintained to spec……..including the booster fan.
(….and to the best of my knowledge, the flaps that Darren refers to aren’t part of the heating system…….)
Just sayin’
EDIT: Since posting this, I’ve learned that these flaps ARE indeed integral to the heating system…

[KIWI]

Hi, I'm slowly trying to sort out the tinware on the motor but have hit a bit of snag with the two covers that go over the non-return flaps either side of the fan duct outlets. The flaps are hinged on pins and the covers are left and right (viewed facing the engine. Their orientation is important as they're asymetrical. Also, they are straight and I've reused the pins but they seem to foul on the pins and wont sit flush. The edge that sits on the heatexchangers isn't a neat fit suggesting that maybe they had a gasket of some sort under them that would have given a proper seal and raised the plates clear of the hinge pins. I hope this all makes sense? I can't find any drawings or mention of them in any of the manuals nor any reference to a gasket of some sort. I never pulled these off the motor originally so have no idea what is or isn't missing.  Any thoughts appreciated. The image below is from another site but shows them as I believe they're meant to be oriented???  

Pretty sure I have the correct gaskets.
Will check tomorrow. 
PR

[Crankster]

Pretty sure I have the correct gaskets.
Will check tomorrow. 
PR

Thanks for taking a look. I didn't pull mine apart so have not idea what should have been there originally.

[T1 Terry]

Your bus, do what you like…….
however, if there are fumes in the warm air, you have an exhaust leak and or oil dripping onto the heater boxes…..both can be fixed.
Kombi heaters, in my experience are toasty warm on cold days and operate efficiently if everything has been maintained to spec……..including the booster fan.
(….and to the best of my knowledge, the flaps that Darren refers to aren’t part of the heating system…….)
Just sayin’

I believe the job of those flaps is to pump some air through the heater boxes and when the heater flaps are closed, that air goes out through the bypass section under the heater flap cover I believe, but I can't find an example in amongst my kombi parts pile .... mostly because it's been there for the 7 yrs since we arrived in SA and still hasn't been sorted, but rather other stuff has been piled there as well 

The smell problem wasn't so much an oil smoke or exhaust fume problem, but they were there along with the baked dirt smell. Our Kombi has a lot of kms on the clock and a lot of those were off the bitumen. I think previous owners had simply left the connector/muffler tubes off but not sealed the transfer tubes that bring the hot air up front. This caused dust to be pulled up inside those tubes and then baked on with oil mist that the "forever" oil leak from one of the previous engines ...... 

When Kombi has its EV conversion, it will have a reverse cycle air conditioner plumbed into the existing system as well as one of those fibreglass manifold things that the after market air con people made to go in the roof cavity of the cab.

T1 Terry

[Crankster]

I've gone for fully stock tinware replacement (as a lot was missing, bodged over etc.). Problem is knowing what 'stock' looks like and where it should go

[T1 Terry]

I've gone for fully stock tinware replacement (as a lot was missing, bodged over etc.). Problem is knowing what 'stock' looks like and where it should go

:lol: Went through the same thing every time I stripped the kombi motor down looking for the mystery oil leak .... take al the tinware to the parts washer, give it all another coat of black enamel and ..... all the witness marks are gone ... if you do a Google search for "vw type 4 tinware diagram" you can play match the jigsaw piece with the picture and try to get it all to fit ...... the next trick is figuring out which bits need to go in first, so be prepared for a few fit/remove/put the missing part in/refit and possibly a few repeats of the same steps. Don't fully tighten any of the screws until you get all the bits for that section fitted, it allows for "adjustments" so you can get all the screws into the required holes ...
On the plus side, it's such a feeling of achievement when the tinware box is empty and all bits are on and screwed up

Don't forget, the deflector plate between the barrels must be fitted before the pushrod tubes go in, those are two pieces you don't want to be still in the box after all other tinware is on and tightened up   

T1 Terry

[KIWI]

Thanks for taking a look. I didn't pull mine apart so have not idea what should have been there originally.

The flaps are 021-119-263A LHS and 021-119-264A RHS:
Air non return flap
   


The gaskets are 256 325 021A LHS and 256 326 021A RHS:
Gasket - Heat exchanger cover
   


The covers are 021-256-321B LHS and 021-256-322A RHS:
Cover - Heat exchanger
   

I made new pins from 3mm brass rod. 56mm long LHS and 62.5mm long RHS.
I have the lot in my parts bin if you would like a look or to use as patterns.

When fitting the Engine cover plates to the Fan housing make sure you seal them as shown in this picture from 1500king:
   
PR

[KIWI]

The operation of the flaps is explained in this Ratwell thread:
72-79 Bus heating system
PR