Type 1 Vs Type 4

[MeMatt]

Hello all, 
So I have pricing on rebuilding my 1641 engine, 4k if I do it myself or upto 8k if someone does it. And thats if my case is ok. Was hoping to go 1776 but a few have said cant run my pict 34.
Im also now thinking if I should put that $$ into a type 4 motor. 

What are peoples opinions…. 

1. I understand Im up for 5k by the time its back in car
2. Happy to do a fair bit of work myself
3. Its a daily driver 
4. Bus was for sale but Im planning on keeping it for a few more years.

[Barry]

Matt

You can run a Pict 34
I quite happily ran a 1916 with stock exhaust and a Pict 34 rejetted. 

A stock 1600 puts out 40RWHP and this set up Put out 50 RWHP

IN my opinion the Type 4 is a better motor. 
I would only buy a kombi with an 1800 or 2000 motor. 

BUT…….
Unless you come across a good known running Type 4 I would stick with the type 1. 


I am getting a new Type 4 2L built at the moment and so far I have spent
Heads $1000 each including machining and 5 angle valve job
pistons and barrels $770 mahle, 
scat camshaft, scat lifters ,scat springs scat camshaft gear ,$850
 exhaust from CSP $1300  
carb linkage $450 CSP  
CSP manifolds $550

40mm Webber’s $700 each original Webber 
coatings for heads and pistons $800  

Then there is clutch, electric fuel pump, alternator, dizzy

then I would say another $2k to $4k to finish the rest labour balancing, blueprining tuning

Now I have not mentioned getting a case yet. 
You will also need to change your gear box

---

So……. I would stick with the Type 1. 

Spend the extra and get a 1776 or 1916, a decent exhaust and a rejetted Pict. 

Aircooled.net use to sell re-jetted Picts. 
I will see if I can find the link

[Oldman]

In my honest opinion Matt, you’ll most likely be up for more than $5k to get it back in and driving.
Buying the bits and assembling the engine is not going to be the answer.
A proper engine builder does waaay more than that to ensure engine longevity.
There’s all sorts of mechanical knowledge required to ensure that stroke/deck height/compression ratio etc. is correct for the components used…let alone the quality of the parts themselves.
Proper engine building is an art, in my opinion……..and there are not too many good builders around any more…..do your research well.
Just my 2 bobs worth 

[Barry]

Geez…… looks like you can’t even buy a new decent 34 Pict carb. 

Best you can do is a Solex 30 Pict with an adapter plate from CB

[MeMatt]

In my honest opinion Matt, you’ll most likely be up for more than $5k to get it back in and driving.
Buying the bits and assembling the engine is not going to be the answer.
A proper engine builder does waaay more than that to ensure engine longevity.
There’s all sorts of mechanical knowledge required to ensure that stroke/deck height/compression ratio etc. is correct for the components used…let alone the quality of the parts themselves.
Proper engine building is an art, in my opinion……..and there are not too many good builders around any more…..do your research well.
Just my 2 bobs worth 

Engine builders are worth their dollars.. 
flying VW will do my case and crank at 1776 for 6k. 
Mike from CBB will do same for 4k. 
Rod Penrose will measure case and crank and supply 1641 parts for 3.5k
Wayne Penrose said not until june 2023. 

Im resigned to the fact I need to spend about 7k.

[Wayne Murray]

I have type 1 engines in all my cars, Three have 2175cc stoked and bored but you don't have to go to that extreme. 1916cc is a much better engine size, If you have to get any machine work done ,increasing the size a little more isn't going to make much different in cost, including the heads and buying barrel and pistons. I'd get bigger values in the heads as well.
Duel carburettors  are then on the cards with an increase in engine size and also gearbox change.
When I did my duel cab ute kombi I went standard but I wouldn't do it again as it is dead slow up hills compared to my other cars with larger motors and gearbox combinations.
End of the day it depends on what you can do. costs involved in new and machinery costs and what can be salvaged from the old motor.
Buying a type 4 motor without driving it or knowing it's history can be risky in it's self, as the owners might not know or can help in what they tell you about the motor.

[Tintop]

Which gearbox do you have?  2 litre engine on a 3 rib is possible ... good acceleration but will rev a bit hard on the highway. 5 or 6 rib would be better for a 2 litre.... at a minimum you'd want 
the deeper bellhousing and associated clutch and input shaft

[MeMatt]

Which gearbox do you have?  2 litre engine on a 3 rib is possible ... good acceleration but will rev a bit hard on the highway. 5 or 6 rib would be better for a 2 litre.... at a minimum you'd want 
the deeper bellhousing and associated clutch and input shaft

Got a 3 rib. Decided Im sticking with the type 1.