(01-01-2023, 02:41 PM)Doob Wrote: Great to hear you have fixed it I am not exactly sure what you taped up or how this tape fixed it? Could you add some photos please?
Horn issues seem to be a common problem and there were some excellent discussions on the old Kombi Club Forum re this topic - it would be good to build up the knowledge base again
I was in the process of taking photos & drawing up a horn circuit diagram of my 1971 low light Kombi that I thought might be the same, or similar, to your 1972 Bus. I know later models were very different (after 1974?). Even though you have fixed the horn, I might just add to this thread, my understanding of how the horn system works on my Kombi and also attach my wiring diagram and photos.
In a nut shell for my Bus - the power to the horn comes from the battery, via the ignition switch (need ignition on to blow the horn) - via fuse #10 - to the horn. The wire from the fuse to the horn is black with yellow stripes and is bundled with the brake light wiring to the master cylinder. The brown earth wire, from the horn, goes up through the rubber steering coupling and inner steering column to the steering wheel hub. Within the steering wheel hub, this earth wire attaches to a sprung & isolated floating ring (for want of a better technical term). When the horn button is pushed, this 'floating ring' makes electrical contact with the metal steering wheel hub and steering column. The steering column outer tube is earthed to the chassis via an electrical wire at the bottom end of the tube (see Bentley Manual Section 2 Fig 9-15.)
For my 1971 Bus there is continuous electrical continuity between the steering wheel hub, the inner steering column, the outer steering tube and the chassis. This is required for the horn to work. (i.e. trying to isolate the steering column from earth would result in the horn not working when the horn button was pushed).
A common reported cause of unwanted horn soundings is a premature earthing out of the wire from the horn going up the steering column. Either being damaged at the lower steering coupling or withing the steering wheel hub. Or possibly the floating ring in the steering hub is shorting out.
Attached - my crude horn wiring diagram and photos
Cheers
Grant
Look at Mordred diagram as the wire doesn't go from horn up the steering column. Unless 71 does. the earth wire (Brown) that comes from the horn connects to the outer steering column, which has a connector on. Then on the outside steering coupler a brown earth wire then goes from one of the bolts (one of the two lower bolts) and up the middle of the steering coupler, up the middle of steering column and connects to the steering wheel ring wire connector.
72 Kombi Microbus 72 Kombi Van 72 Kombi DC Ute 76 Kombi SC Ute Denial is a sign of quilt ! 72
(01-01-2023, 04:27 PM)Pabloako Wrote: This is where I put the tape, which I used as a insulator. I found this diagram on Samba and I have marked where I put the tape in blue.
I unbolted the four bolts under area where in ignition switch housing is connected to the dash, which is basically the part that holds the whole assembly to the dashboard and this enabled me to lift everything up by about 20cm, without having to disconnect all of the wires.
This allowed me to get access to the small electrical tab/connector (Right at the bottom of the outer tube #12, and I sanded that down to get a nice connection on it. I then created new wire, connected it to the tab and slid ithe down past the steering box. (This is much easier than trying to get you hand up behind the steering box after it is all put back together again).
I then put one 'wrap' of silicone tape around the bottom of the of the column tube #12 at the bottom, which is the bottom blue line I have added on the diagram. The tube slots into the cover plate #17 and that has a small plastic ring around it to stop the hole to stop the tube from grounding on the floor. The tape I added just made sure there wasn't any connection.
I then put a wrap of tape around the very top of the outer the, however that was more so that the "Retainer for turn signal switch" #5 had a nice snug fit and didn't turn around too easily. I don't know if this helped wth the horne problem though.
I then put some tape around the very top of the inner column, right where the semi circle metal piece that slots in right next to the indicator arm. I did this so that it didn't ground against the inner column. This is the top right blue line. I suspect that the grounding issue I had was caused by the indicator arm having a negative charge in it and that touched the inner column vie the semi-circle piece of metal and this tape is what fixed my issue.
Normally the plastic ring, which you removed is in the wrong place which causes the horn to continuously on. You may have only needed to move that up or down to achieve what you wanted.
Have you got number2 the support ring on your diagram as this is what stops the inner column moving to far.
Glad what ever you have done has worked for you and you don't have the need for earmuffs while driving.
72 Kombi Microbus 72 Kombi Van 72 Kombi DC Ute 76 Kombi SC Ute Denial is a sign of quilt ! 72
This is a great forum - From the comments & diagrams posted I have just learnt that my Kombi horn has been wired incorrectly all these years !!!
The horn has been working fine but with some creative auto-electric work previously !!
Embarrassing I had not realized this earlier !! - But now I have my next wiring job sorted
(01-01-2023, 05:28 PM)Doob Wrote: This is a great forum - From the comments & diagrams posted I have just learnt that my Kombi horn has been wired incorrectly all these years !!!
The horn has been working fine but with some creative auto-electric work previously !!
Embarrassing I had not realized this earlier !! - But now I have my next wiring job sorted
What's the saying "If it ain't broken Don't fix it"
It's up to you whether you do or not but if it's been working fine ,I would leave it alone. Sometimes trying to fix something like this can cause more kombi trouble then if you left it alone.
On my 72 microbus the previous owner added a second horn and the wire that goes on the outer steering column, is connected on the outer column on the inside of the car, rather then the outside of the car. I've owner it for 28 years, never gone to the trouble of fixing or changing it back as it seems to work fine.
You mentioned you fuse for the horn is of #10,I'm shore 72 is the same but the Bentley book mentions 72 as fuse #12, can't see the dame wire to see which one it comes off.
72 Kombi Microbus 72 Kombi Van 72 Kombi DC Ute 76 Kombi SC Ute Denial is a sign of quilt ! 72
Yes...I agree with the philosophy of 'if it aint broke don't fix it ' - but if I ever need to do any work on the steering column at some stage I may try to re-wire the horn,
As for fuse allocations !! - The Bentley Manual is a USA publication so I guess aimed primarily at Buses built for the USA market? - I am fairly sure our 1971 Bus was assembled in Australia (Vic). I have come across a few minor anomalies in the circuit diagrams in the Bentley Manual and our 'as built' Ozy Bus. Our Bus wiring is most like the 1972 (Drawing F) in the Manual with aspects of the earlier 1971 (Drawing E2) [ e,g our Bus had a generator, not the alternator depicted in Drawing F]
The actual fuse allocations are most like 1972 [Bentley Section 4 - table (a) on page 5] - but again with aspects of 1971 [e.g the horn on fuse #10 ]
On my fuse box, fuses 10,11 & 12 are all bridged on the lower input side..so I guess it does not make a big difference if the horn is on fuse 10 or 12.
I am yet to get a definitive logic for the allocation of the 8amp and 16 amp fuses ??
I would kill for a look at the original 1971 & 1972 Australian issued Owners Manuals and the fuse box drawing.
A few years ago I went to great lengths to map out the fuse box & relay wiring on our Bus.
See attached sketch. (The spot light & USB charger wires are additions)
(02-01-2023, 09:34 AM)Doob Wrote: Yes...I agree with the philosophy of 'if it aint broke don't fix it ' - but if I ever need to do any work on the steering column at some stage I may try to re-wire the horn,
As for fuse allocations !! - The Bentley Manual is a USA publication so I guess aimed primarily at Buses built for the USA market? - I am fairly sure our 1971 Bus was assembled in Australia (Vic). I have come across a few minor anomalies in the circuit diagrams in the Bentley Manual and our 'as built' Ozy Bus. Our Bus wiring is most like the 1972 (Drawing F) in the Manual with aspects of the earlier 1971 (Drawing E2) [ e,g our Bus had a generator, not the alternator depicted in Drawing F]
The actual fuse allocations are most like 1972 [Bentley Section 4 - table (a) on page 5] - but again with aspects of 1971 [e.g the horn on fuse #10 ]
On my fuse box, fuses 10,11 & 12 are all bridged on the lower input side..so I guess it does not make a big difference if the horn is on fuse 10 or 12.
I am yet to get a definitive logic for the allocation of the 8amp and 16 amp fuses ??
I would kill for a look at the original 1971 & 1972 Australian issued Owners Manuals and the fuse box drawing.
A few years ago I went to great lengths to map out the fuse box & relay wiring on our Bus.
See attached sketch. (The spot light & USB charger wires are additions)
Cheers Grant
This is august 1971 for a 72 kombi, i don't have a august 1970 manual for a 1971 year
72 Kombi Microbus 72 Kombi Van 72 Kombi DC Ute 76 Kombi SC Ute Denial is a sign of quilt ! 72
This site has the listing for all the Bay window years and the fuse layouts. search for Ratwell.com and you will find a massive site with huge amounts of info on Baywindow buses, although it is an American based site.
There are differences between the year that Wayne has given you and the one you want and they are detailed here.
Adrian
A new beginning. +
1975 Kombi The Doctor 1976 Dual Cab Bumble Bee 1974 Microbus Matilda (parts bus)
Many thanks Adrian - Yes the 'ratwell' website is a great resource - I had previously located USA Owner Manuals there.
The Fuse Box part No in my Bus is 411 937 505B as per the 1971 model in the above table from Ratwell. However, according to the Australian Compliance plate the vehicle was manufactured in 10/71 which would make it a 1972 model according to the table.?
It is no big deal - I think I have a fair idea on the wiring detail for my Bus - but there are a few small differences compared to the USA published information.
Yes, there are a few differences between year models in Australia and other markets, and it does seem also there are cases when vehicles have later or older parts that the actual build date reflects. I know of a 1974 that has the fuel filler flap at the back like a 73 cross over but every other part seems early 1974 (1600 engine), and another (in the same colour) that has the expected 1974 set up (1800) with the earlier steering column and then mine which is a little later in 1974 (was 1800) but has the 1975 wiring additions, and the later steering column. (all are kombi transporters too, not Microbuses although I have heard that microbuses in Australia had the same body part imported and then the addition parts added to order on shore in assembly)
Adrian
A new beginning. +
1975 Kombi The Doctor 1976 Dual Cab Bumble Bee 1974 Microbus Matilda (parts bus)
- But now I have my next wiring job sorted 
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