Thread Rating:
  • 0 Vote(s) - 0 Average
  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5
Shift Coupler
#1
Hi all, got another question for you. I'm in the process of replacing all the shift rod bushes, and I noticed that the coupler has a fair bit of play in the bushes. So bought a new one and discovered that it has the same amount (if not a little more...) play in the bushes. Is this normal? And if so, is there a reason for it? There's around 3mm play back and forth, and probably 1mm up and down 

   

    Thanks for any help,
                                    Mark
Reply
#2
AFAIK not normally. 

I only use CB Rhino bushes in OG housings. 

The CB is the same as CSP

https://www.cbperformance.com/product-p/6110.htm
76 Bay Microbus - Woody
90 T3 Caravelle C Auto - Daisy
Reply
#3
(07-09-2024, 03:57 PM)Barry Wrote: AFAIK not normally. 

I only use CB Rhino bushes in OG housings. 

The CB is the same as CSP

https://www.cbperformance.com/product-p/6110.htm
Thanks Barry. It doesn't seem right to me. 3mm at the coupling would probably translate to 100mm at the gear knob.
I restored a Manx Tow'd a couple of years ago and it had the same play, so I fabricated 2 new bushes out of teflon on the bench router and it made a heap of difference at the shifter.......maybe I'll do the same for this one.
                                                                                         
                                                                                                Mark
Reply
#4
Yeah, don't think there should be that much play.......
Are you bolting straight through, like the CSP system ?, or using the stock two coarse screw fixings that VW had originally ?
I chucked the screws and bolted straight through with a High Tensile bolt and Nyloc nut......made a heap of difference and took a lot of play out of that connection.
For the price of a bolt & nut it could be worth a shot......

Let us know how you get on.
Cheers,
Mark
It’s not oil, it’s sweat from all the horsepower !  

Pit crew for : The Tardis - a ‘76 Sopru Campmobile
                   & Herman  - the ‘71 White Low Light
Reply
#5
(07-09-2024, 05:25 PM)Oldman Wrote: Yeah, don't think there should be that much play.......
Are you bolting straight through, like the CSP system ?, or using the stock two coarse screw fixings that VW had originally ?
I chucked the screws and bolted straight through with a High Tensile bolt and Nyloc nut......made a heap of difference and took a lot of play out of that connection.
For the price of a bolt & nut it could be worth a shot......

Let us know how you get on.

The new one has the straight through bolt and nylock nut...actually the old one does too come to think of it. I was thinking that maybe tightening it might spread the plastic bushes enough to take up the slack, but they seem to be too hard to have any give in them. I haven't bolted the new one on yet, so I might give it a go tomorrow and see how it looks. If it still feels like too much slop, I may just fab a couple of new ones. I've got a ton of HDPE leftover from my father's plastic factory, so i might make them out of that. I'll let you know how it goes

                                                                                                                             Mark
Reply
#6
Nice, ….you could have a market on here for improved bushes.
Just sayin’ 
Big Grin
Cheers,
Mark
It’s not oil, it’s sweat from all the horsepower !  

Pit crew for : The Tardis - a ‘76 Sopru Campmobile
                   & Herman  - the ‘71 White Low Light
Reply
#7
Isn’t there normally a steel bust that goes through?
76 Bay Microbus - Woody
90 T3 Caravelle C Auto - Daisy
Reply
#8
(07-09-2024, 06:44 PM)Barry Wrote: Isn’t there normally a steel bust that goes through?

Yes, there's a type of crush tube I suppose you could call it that goes through it. I'd disassembled in the photo to have a closer look.

                          Mark
Reply
#9
(07-09-2024, 06:00 PM)Mark D Wrote: The new one has the straight through bolt and nylock nut...actually the old one does too come to think of it. I was thinking that maybe tightening it might spread the plastic bushes enough to take up the slack, but they seem to be too hard to have any give in them. I haven't bolted the new one on yet, so I might give it a go tomorrow and see how it looks. If it still feels like too much slop, I may just fab a couple of new ones. I've got a ton of HDPE leftover from my father's plastic factory, so i might make them out of that. I'll let you know how it goes

                                                                                                                             Mark

(07-09-2024, 08:26 PM)Mark D Wrote: Yes, there's a type of crush tube I suppose you could call it that goes through it. I'd disassembled in the photo to have a closer look.

                          Mark
Is there a torque setting for the connection?
Modern plastics 'fail' the old way plastics worked & thus compression.
Maybe computer printed is not the same as OEM.
Cheers
Yesterday is History. Tomorrow a Mystery. Today is the PRESENT.
                    Pilot of "Old Boy" 76 Sopru fuel injected
                                    Copilot - Lauren
Reply
#10
Looking back at your original pic. of the shift coupling, the bushes look like a poor fit .....ie. the steel casing has the gap/play between the bush and the case.
Compare it to the Rhino unit....there is no gap between case and bush.....
No bolt modification is going to rectify that, in my opinion.
My understanding of the way the coupler works is that the bushes ease the mechanical shock between shift rod and selector shaft. If the connection was over tightened it would prevent the bushes doing what they were designed to do....absorb shock.
I think your solution of new /replacement bushes is the answer  Wink
Me ?....I'd probably spring for a new Rhino unit....buy once, cry once as the saying goes.

Even the JK option looks better than what you have.....I'd ditch the metal tube, ( it's there to re-use the stock, 2 coarse threaded screws), and replace it with a H/T bolt & nyloc....
https://www.justkampers.com.au/311-798-2...2-bay.html

Or there's this one from Victoria ... different bushing system and Australian made:

https://www.vwperformance.com.au/product...um-1968-on
Cheers,
Mark
It’s not oil, it’s sweat from all the horsepower !  

Pit crew for : The Tardis - a ‘76 Sopru Campmobile
                   & Herman  - the ‘71 White Low Light
Reply


Forum Jump:


Users browsing this thread: 10 Guest(s)