Bay Window Fuel Sender Access Hatch

[Oldman]

Courtesy of TTMK (Tommy) and Doc (Rob):
Pictures now for access panel at long last . 
I went to my local wreckers for mitsubishi and obtained from under the rear seat of any TE - TW magna a fuel sender unit panel as you can see from the photos it works a treat and does not look out of place it saves having to pull the engine out then the fuel tank to replace the sender unit 
This was previously posted a link to a guy whom i think went a little over the top but if you have time yep do it his way , but this takes all of 15 mins to change a tank unit * the bustop sells tank units * contact his reverence [roy] if you need one .
All you need is the dimensions for cutting count the ribs from my photos , i was standing at the rear of the kombi looking towards the front . 
A jig saw , cordless drill is handy  
A magna fuel sender cover all of $ 5.00 bucks if you get on well with your wrecker they will prob give you one 
A few screw drivers , and pk screws 
A compass to draw a circle , permant marking pen . 
I fitted foam under the magna panel to make is seal due to the floor ribs
drill 4 holes 1/8 inch drill bit 

To remove the sender once the hole is cut disconnect the two wires attached ,rotate the locking ring , remove the sender , replace it with the new one , replace the sender seal , you may need to vaseline the new sealing ring . refit the locking plate connect the wires 
fit the magna plate along with some foam . 
NO MORE RUNNING OUT OF FUEL ON DARK WINTER NIGHTS !! 

http://www.specialpatrolgroup.co.uk/spooky/access/access.html
Dimensions and the long way to do it 


The magna panel fitted looking from the back 



The magna panel looking from above from the rear rock and roll seat  
Dimensions 157 mm x 157 mm

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From Doc:

Hi guys
I changed the fuel sender in my daughters 1974 Kombi this afternoon and there were a few incidents

This is the diagram that Tom referenced earlier (linked)


For a 1974 bay my suggestion is that you make it 800 from the lip or better still as close to the rear seat as you can but you will need to leave enough room to seal it afterwards.

I could get at the sender unit but it was awkward.

Lessons Learn't
1) If using a jig saw make sure you use a fine tooth metal saw.
2) Make sure the depth of the saw is not too deep. I started out with a Ryobi unit which was inherited from my father in law ....... This worked fine until the blade clamp shattered ..... I then bought a Bosch and the blade will hit the fuel tank by about 1/4 of an inch.
3) Don't make the hole where the diagram says move it towards the front of the car.
4) Clean as much crud as you can after you have opened it up

 

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Doc (cont.)

Here is the new sender


Important Lesson

1.)Have the tank less than 1/2 full otherwise you will have to put the sender in 180 degrees the other way 
2.) Use Rubber Grease on your O ring
3.) Because of the new O ring the gauge was near impossible to turn So use a big screwdriver as a lever and the top of your hole as the fulcrum it will go in.
4.) If you do put it in 180 degrees in the wrong direction make sure you wires are the correct way round!

I made my cover our of some old Kombi corrugated 


I would normally silastic and seal it up but as I am completely anal about most things when I am out of fuel I will probably rotate the sender and the close it up with silastic as well as self tappers