69 Baywindow Resurrection- The time has come!

[Cbus]

Then I had a play with the A Pillar.

Looks like a fair chunk of work to do once the windscreen is out.

I didn't get the contact saved from the old forum for replacement A Pillars. Anyone haven email or phone number for him?
The whole Pillar will need some love...

 Something that Keith Poole explained to me makes sense. Our Busses weren't designed to have people sleeping in them. The condensation from when we do runs down the insides of the pillars. That's the biggest reason why they rust in the pillars....

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Then the day got real...
Taking paint off is scary....
Cutting your bus is way worse...

Some inner panel work to patch.

And a small hole in the inner guard.

Have some bits cut already. Hopefully make a start during the week before I go chasing lambs again next Sunday.

The inside always looks worse than the outside...

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So I cleaned it all up as best as I could and gave it a good dose of rust converter...

What weld through primers do you recommend. Do I go copper or galv? I want to give it all a good coating before I fire up the TIG.

You will need to increase size of cuts until you have full thickness original metal. Otherwise job will be temporary.
Besides needing to remove rust to assist longevity, welding to anything that has rust is a bitch.

If rust treating clean metal ensure it has enough time to give a phosphated surface.
Usually an hr. If it has dried, apply more acid to reactivate the dried acid then immediately rinse well and dry quickly with compressed air or metho.

For a better hit, wet with rustex? wet on wet then allow to completely dry.
Remove the resulting crusty layer and prime or penetrol and follow up protection.

For heavier rust I prefer tannin acid rust convertor.
Fertan or similar.
It can be left as the black surface. Wipe over and prime with an epoxy or enamel primer.
If enamel I spray liberal with penetrol and allow to dry 24 hrs first. Gets into seams.
Aussie version of POR15 also a good / better option.

I prefer the copper weld through spray.
Only for actual welding areas.

Internaly, after welding follow up with tectyl 506.

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You will need to increase size of cuts until you have full thickness original metal. Otherwise job will be temporary.
Besides needing to remove rust to assist longevity, welding to anything that has rust is a bitch.

If rust treating clean metal ensure it has enough time to give a phosphated surface.
Usually an hr. If it has dried, apply more acid to reactivate the dried acid then immediately rinse well and dry quickly with compressed air or metho.

For a better hit, wet with rustex? wet on wet then allow to completely dry.
Remove the resulting crusty layer and prime or penetrol and follow up protection.

For heavier rust I prefer tannin acid rust convertor.
Fertan or similar.
It can be left as the black surface. Wipe over and prime with an epoxy or enamel primer.
If enamel I spray liberal with penetrol and allow to dry 24 hrs first. Gets into seams.
Aussie version of POR15 also a good / better option.

I prefer the copper weld through spray.
Only for actual welding areas.

Internaly, after welding follow up with tectyl 506.

The sandblaster would be really handy on this job.
Hydrochloric acid removes rust quicker but also eats metal.
If using it, rinse well and immediately follow up with phosphoric acid.