The heads went on and tensioned down next
The boss on each head that I machined and drilled are for pyrometers.
I'm using lash caps on the ends of the valve stems which means checking rocker geometry
To do this I used a bubble balance attached to a flat magnet on the lash cap, and rotated the whole engine in the stand untill the bubble showed the valve was vertical.
I found half valve open height using a dial guage,cam follower and push rod (adjustable)
I used shims under the rocker posts (earlier tests saw the rocker arms connecting with valve caps due to the extra lash cap height when the valves were closed).
Then attached the shims and rocker gear on the push rod and head. You can just see the edge of the shim under the post.
Put the bubble balancer on the end of the adjuster (which I machined flat and true on the valve grinding machine).
As the rocker gear was done up it pushed the valve down. Now all that was left was to adjust the push rod up or down untill the bubble ballance showed level on the end of the adjuster. This then is neutral side clearence at half valve opening (the best geometry for least amount of wear in the guide).
The adjusted pushrod is now the correct length (I did this for each cylinder and the length was the same for each) and I cut the semi finished molly pushrods in the lathe pressed in the ball ends and assembled the rest of the gear.
The boss on each head that I machined and drilled are for pyrometers.
I'm using lash caps on the ends of the valve stems which means checking rocker geometry
To do this I used a bubble balance attached to a flat magnet on the lash cap, and rotated the whole engine in the stand untill the bubble showed the valve was vertical.
I found half valve open height using a dial guage,cam follower and push rod (adjustable)
I used shims under the rocker posts (earlier tests saw the rocker arms connecting with valve caps due to the extra lash cap height when the valves were closed).
Then attached the shims and rocker gear on the push rod and head. You can just see the edge of the shim under the post.
Put the bubble balancer on the end of the adjuster (which I machined flat and true on the valve grinding machine).
As the rocker gear was done up it pushed the valve down. Now all that was left was to adjust the push rod up or down untill the bubble ballance showed level on the end of the adjuster. This then is neutral side clearence at half valve opening (the best geometry for least amount of wear in the guide).
The adjusted pushrod is now the correct length (I did this for each cylinder and the length was the same for each) and I cut the semi finished molly pushrods in the lathe pressed in the ball ends and assembled the rest of the gear.