Changing rear Brake Shoes & Wheel Cylinders

[Oldman]

With the shoe's off you will need to remove the brake-lever from the shoe (so you can attach it to the new one) by removing the c-clip that holds the lever onto the pad. I used a screw-driver to open the clip and then a small hammer to remove it.



There is a new c-clip in the brake kit to hold the break-lever onto the new shoe. I closed it with a pair of vice-grip pliers 




Replacing the wheel cylinder involves removing the brake line, which is the metal tube that goes into the back of the wheel cylinder with a nut on the end, and undoing the nut that holds the wheel cylinder onto the break drum (it's the larger nut under the brake line). Undo the brake-line first other wise the the wheel cylinder turns when you try to undo the brake-line.



With the brake-line and nut removed the wheel cylinder should pull out.



Replace the wheel cylinder, and attach the brake-line and nut. Be careful not to cross-thread the brake-line.
 

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To fit the new break shoes (with the break lever attached) I attached the new spring with coils to the back so that the ends of the spring came through the front. Replaced the metal bar that sat between the top of the shoes, the bigger slot in the bar fits over the break-lever (don't forget the metal clip that goes over the bar and clips onto the spring). 

I then stretched the shoes over the hub and put the bottom ends into the adjusting stars and then to the top of the shoes into the wheel cylinder – you may need to adjust the slots on the wheel cylinder so they line up with the shoes.
One of the last things to do is replace the bottom spring, which I found a little tricky, but eventually got it. Then I put the break cable back on the break lever – did the same on the other side and then fixed the brake-cable's back onto the hand-break at the front of the bus.

Rear shoes replaced. 


Run out of the time to do the front pads and bleed the breaks – but will post when I do.

Rev.