04-07-2022, 01:48 PM
Courtesy of Schmoburger :
ADJUSTING YOUR VALVES IN EASY STEPS.
WHAT YOU WILL NEED:
1m of thin nylon rope
14mm socket and ratchet or bar.
14mm combination spanner
medium to large flat screwdriver
large adjustable spanner (shifter)
prybar (optional but highly recommended)
10mm open end spanner(only needed if 2nd timing mark is not present)
30cm length of string (as above)
liquid paper (as above)
tape measure (as above)
PROCEDURE:
1. Leave engine to cool completely before adjusting, and place transmission in neutral with handbrake pulled on firmly.
2. feed end of rope through left hand side rocker cover retaining clip, then tie a thumbnot around the prybar, ratchet handle or breaker bar using both the ends of the rope.
3. after ensuring the knot is secure, grasp both ends of the bar with a hand at each end and yank sharply outwards and downwards until the clip disengages from its slots on the cover, then tap or pry it down onto the heater box.
4. you should be able to now pull the rocker cover off fairly effortlessly by gripping the top half with a few fingers on each side and pulling so it pivots on the bottom endge, then slide it out. In some cases it will have been ill-advisedly stuck to the top of the rocker box with gasket goo or some other sealant, and will not come off. the only thing for this is GENTLE persuasion with a screwdriver. If you are over-zealous you can damage the rocker box edge and rocker cover which will promote messy and smelly oil leaks after the cover is put back on.
5. undo the rope and pull it clear... then repeat steps 2 3 and 4 on the right hand rocker cover.
6. pop the engine lid, then pull the HT lead out of the coil (the coil is a metal cylinder with wires at one end, the fat one in the middle being the HT), then move this lead out of the way.
7. Undo the two clips holding on the distributor cap on, then noting the rough position of the #1 contact post, take of the cap and move it aside so that it is not in the way of the distributor rotor.
8. grab the shifter, then adjust it so that it fits nicely around the nut on the alternator pully.
9. using the shifter on the alternator pully nut, turn it clockwise until you see a little notch in the fan/crankshaft-pulley line up with the "0" mark on the plastic scale. If the metal piece on the distributor rotor button is pointing away from you, turn the pulley again until the notch is again lined up with "0", this time the metal contact on the rotor should now be pointing towards you (more or less). This means the engine is now at TDC (top dead center) on cylinder #1 (both valves closed, at the end of compression stroke... if the engine were running, it would be about to fire on #1).
10. go round to the drivers side cylinder head and working bhind the rear wheel, locate the spring for #1 exhaust valve... this is the rearmost of the four springs. Take the feeler gauges and find the one reading .006 , then slide this between the tip of the threaded adjuster on the #1 exhaust rocker arm and the top of the round spring retainer. If clearance is correct you should be able to slide the gauge right through from the top of the spring and out the bottom with a slight drag. If a fair bit of resistance is felt, or there is a gap significantly greater than .006 (this is usually accompanied by a noisy clinking noise when running), they will need adjusting.
11. If the clearance is tight, take the 14mm socket and ratchet and break torque on the #1 exhaust rocker locking nut and continue onto step 12. if clearance is too wide, move onto step 13.
12. use the flat screwdriver to turn the theaded adjuster out (anticlockwise) until the gauge slides through.
13. gently turn adjuster clockwise to tighten it down till it ever so slightly nips the gauges.
14. holding the screw exactly in potition, put the open end of the 14mm combo spanner round the locking nut and tighten it, still holding the screw in position with the screwdriver. after this, switch spanner ends, put the screwdriver back in the slot, then give the locknut a final
nip up and remove the gauge.
15. repeat steps 10-14 with #1 inlet valve... this is the 2nd rocker and spring from the rear of the car on the right hand side.
16. If your engine does not have a second timing mark already painted 180 degrees around from the factory notch on the fan read on with this step... if one is already painted on, move onto step 17. take the 10mm spanner and undo the plastic grill over the fan and remove it and the timing scale from the engine bay. take a piece of string and tape it exactly on the factory notch. then tape it down as close as you can to the exact opposite side of the fan. now take the tape measure and measure across the string at a 90 degree angle and adjust the position of the string at the non-marked side of the fan uuntil there is even distance between the string and either side of the fan. when this is measured, mark the position of the end of the string with liquid paper. a more permanent marking of this position on the fan can be made later. Remove the string and tape and reinstall the fan grille and timing scale, then turn engine back to #1 TDC position as described in step 9.
17. turn the fan pully clockwise until the 180 mark lines up with the "0" timing mark and the rotor contact is pointing to the passenger side (sort of), then on the passenger side cylinder head, measure and adjust the #4 exhaust and inlet valves as described in steps 10-14. #4 exhaust is the rearmost spring, #4 is the one 2nd from the rear.
18. turn pulley clockwise again until the factory timing notch is again lined up with "0", this time with the rotor contact poiting away from you. Go back to the passenger side cylinder head and check and adjust #3 inlet and exhaust valve clearances as before (steps 10-14). #3exhaust is the one closest to the front, #3 inlet is the one 2nd from the front.
19. turn the pulley clockwise again, until the 180 degree mark is once again in line with "0", with the rotor contact still pointing away from you, then move back to the right hand side and check and adjust clearances for #2 exhaust and inlet valves as before. #2 exhaust is the frontmost valve on the right hand head, #2 inlet is the one 2nd from the front.
20. When you are satisfied that the valves are correctly adjusted, get both rocker covers and wipe any grit or foreign material out of them, and replace the cork gaskets if you wish. do NOT put any gasketing compound on the side of the cork that is going to contact the rocker box.
21. place the covers back over the rocker boxes, then slide the retainer clips up enuff to hold the covers just in place. one cover at a time, thread the rope through again as you did when you took them off, and holding the covers on, yank the rope until the clips hold firmly, then pry the clips up until they snap back into the notches on the cover.
22. put the distributor cap back on top of the distibutor body and turn it till it locates in the keyed slots (it wont turn when it is located correctly). hold it in place and squeeze the metal clips one at a time towards the body until they snap over the edges of the cap.
23. reconnect the HT lead to the coil securely and check the plug leads at either end to make sure they have not pulled loose. sheck that center HT lead is securely on at distributor cap end also.
24. remove all tools, rope etc from the engine bay, close all things that are open, and drive another 6000km.
I am anal retentive so check my valve clearance every 1000km, but this isnt necessary on a healthy engine with strong heads.
Courtesy 1500king (Andrew):
(Mod. note - I use this process as it saves a lot of time....and there is no need for a 2nd timing mark)
I short cut as I hate adjusting them...
At #1 TDC, the valves are at the following positions;
#1 Combustion
inlet closed- adjust
Ex closed-adjust
#4 Compression
inlet open- do not adjust
exhaust closed- adjust
#3 overlap
inlet going on lobe-do not adjust
exhaust coming off lobe- do not adjust
#2 Exhaust
inlet closed-adjust
exhaust open- do not adjust
Notice the firing order above and the stage each cylinder is at?? .... 1432, it is just the position of each cylinder in the 4 stroke cycle.
The next cylinder in the firing order is just one stroke behind the firing cylinder and so on.
Then, turn the motor over one revolution to get #3 on combustion TDC and do the rest of them.
That way , you always see the timing mark on TDC and you do 4 valves each time.