10-07-2022, 05:27 PM
(This post was last modified: 10-07-2022, 07:36 PM by Wombatventures.)
To begin with I'm no expert so this is just me showing what I've done.
So our Bay is 69 and I'm hoping to get the wheel cylinders overhauled by PBR in Adelaide.
First crack the wheel nuts before jacking up the van, it just makes life easier. Then again I don't use a rattle gun.
Jack up the van, put it on a jack stand - safety first!
Remove the wheel...
And now we can start the real job.
So remove the bearing cap...except on the passengers side which I didn't photograph, where first you have to remove the speedo cable retaining clip, then remove the bearing cap.
Back off the brake adjusters, through the little hole provided by Volkswagen, with a brake adjusters tool ( I couldn't find mine) or a screw driver. There is an adjuster star wheel top and bottom on the front as it is twin leading shoe.
Undo the Allen bolt in the hub nut... 6mm
The hub nut on the drivers side is left hand thread, on the passengers its right hand thread.
With this removed the brake drum should come off with the wheelbearing and bearing retaining washer. (Don't drop them in the dirt!)
This leaves everything exposed for you to see the condition of the pads, cylinders and drum.
To remove the wheel cylinders you need to disconnect the brake line.
This is a bit more involved than you'd think.
To take the flexible brake line off the top cylinder you can either disassemble the brake shoes, springs, connecting brake line between the cylinders and remove the retaining bolts (crack the flexible line with a 14mm spanner first) then turn the brake cylinder off the line....
But the way I've done it because I want to replace the flexible lines anyway is to disconnect the flexible line first.
Turns out the line is a 17mm and the flare nut is 11mm
Disconnect the hard line first is what I was taught years ago. Then remove the retaining clip.
Pop the flexible line out of the retaining hook on the back of the spindle arm.
Crack the line with a 14mm spanner and wind the flexible line out of the back of the wheel cylinder .
To remove the brake shoes I find it easiest to pry the end of the shoe out of the top or bottom star adjuster slot with a big screwdriver. This let's you take the shoes and springs off in one big lump. Note which way the springs go.
Wheel cylinder removal.
To get at the flare nuts on the connecting line between the 2 cylinders you have to remove the star adjuster. Pop it out with a screwdriver if it doesn't come out by hand.
Remove the connecting line
Unbolt the cylinders. The bolts are 13mm.
With all this removed I took off the backing plate to have a good look at the ball joints.
They definitely will be replaced when I put all this back together as will be new wheel bearings and flexible brake lines, this one was blocked up so I'm tipping its buggered
The cylinders hopefully will come up Ok with an overhauled by PBR, otherwise I'll put new ones on.
Any opinions on brands?
So our Bay is 69 and I'm hoping to get the wheel cylinders overhauled by PBR in Adelaide.
First crack the wheel nuts before jacking up the van, it just makes life easier. Then again I don't use a rattle gun.
Jack up the van, put it on a jack stand - safety first!
Remove the wheel...
And now we can start the real job.
So remove the bearing cap...except on the passengers side which I didn't photograph, where first you have to remove the speedo cable retaining clip, then remove the bearing cap.
Back off the brake adjusters, through the little hole provided by Volkswagen, with a brake adjusters tool ( I couldn't find mine) or a screw driver. There is an adjuster star wheel top and bottom on the front as it is twin leading shoe.
Undo the Allen bolt in the hub nut... 6mm
The hub nut on the drivers side is left hand thread, on the passengers its right hand thread.
With this removed the brake drum should come off with the wheelbearing and bearing retaining washer. (Don't drop them in the dirt!)
This leaves everything exposed for you to see the condition of the pads, cylinders and drum.
To remove the wheel cylinders you need to disconnect the brake line.
This is a bit more involved than you'd think.
To take the flexible brake line off the top cylinder you can either disassemble the brake shoes, springs, connecting brake line between the cylinders and remove the retaining bolts (crack the flexible line with a 14mm spanner first) then turn the brake cylinder off the line....
But the way I've done it because I want to replace the flexible lines anyway is to disconnect the flexible line first.
Turns out the line is a 17mm and the flare nut is 11mm
Disconnect the hard line first is what I was taught years ago. Then remove the retaining clip.
Pop the flexible line out of the retaining hook on the back of the spindle arm.
Crack the line with a 14mm spanner and wind the flexible line out of the back of the wheel cylinder .
To remove the brake shoes I find it easiest to pry the end of the shoe out of the top or bottom star adjuster slot with a big screwdriver. This let's you take the shoes and springs off in one big lump. Note which way the springs go.
Wheel cylinder removal.
To get at the flare nuts on the connecting line between the 2 cylinders you have to remove the star adjuster. Pop it out with a screwdriver if it doesn't come out by hand.
Remove the connecting line
Unbolt the cylinders. The bolts are 13mm.
With all this removed I took off the backing plate to have a good look at the ball joints.
They definitely will be replaced when I put all this back together as will be new wheel bearings and flexible brake lines, this one was blocked up so I'm tipping its buggered
The cylinders hopefully will come up Ok with an overhauled by PBR, otherwise I'll put new ones on.
Any opinions on brands?