20-04-2023, 03:26 PM
My battery lives on the passenger side of the engine compartment, but I removed the spare wheel well as the spare lives on the calf bar up front. The Victron DC to DC lives in there as well and can be programmed to stop drawing from the start battery at what ever voltage and not to restart until what ever voltage you program into it, it also has a programmable time delay before it recommences charging the house battery.
These units talk to your smart phone via Bluetooth so you can do all the programming from there ...... they work heaps better than the Redarc and a fraction of the cost.
Victron also make Bluetooth smart solar controllers in lots of different panel total voltage (open circuit voltage added together in series) and max charging current output,
If you want a combined solar controller and DC to DC charger, Then get the Enerdrive DC to DC charger. It has a trigger connection that you wire back to the coil positive so it only turns on when the ignition is on, but still has programmable bulk and float voltage and optional absorption voltage setting if you are using a lead acid battery.
I run my cabling through the "firewall" I suppose you'd call it, on the passenger side to a fuse block type set up. Mine was set up for an inverter as well as powering the Waeco 80ltr esky fridge and other 12v stuff.
We built a 12v battery out of tired LFP (LiFeP04) lithium cells that had been removed from a DIY electric car conversion. For under $400 you end up with a very fast recharging battery that will deliver the full 100 Ah while still holding 12v, yet only weighs 16kg all up.
T1 Terry
These units talk to your smart phone via Bluetooth so you can do all the programming from there ...... they work heaps better than the Redarc and a fraction of the cost.
Victron also make Bluetooth smart solar controllers in lots of different panel total voltage (open circuit voltage added together in series) and max charging current output,
If you want a combined solar controller and DC to DC charger, Then get the Enerdrive DC to DC charger. It has a trigger connection that you wire back to the coil positive so it only turns on when the ignition is on, but still has programmable bulk and float voltage and optional absorption voltage setting if you are using a lead acid battery.
I run my cabling through the "firewall" I suppose you'd call it, on the passenger side to a fuse block type set up. Mine was set up for an inverter as well as powering the Waeco 80ltr esky fridge and other 12v stuff.
We built a 12v battery out of tired LFP (LiFeP04) lithium cells that had been removed from a DIY electric car conversion. For under $400 you end up with a very fast recharging battery that will deliver the full 100 Ah while still holding 12v, yet only weighs 16kg all up.
T1 Terry