31-03-2023, 12:03 PM
Major surgery? Depends on your definition, but it is a bit more complex than you may think. It can be done in the car, but it is way easier engine out. There a few things that might make it harder.
BTW When you fit the new cooler make sure you follow the torque settings which are extremely light and you can't do them with a normal torque wrench as it isn't accurate down that far. The upside is you can use the smaller one for the sump plate nut and a few other things if you go to buy one, so it isn't a one off purchase.
First is going to be the heater boxes. there are little covers that you can remove where the air bleed from the cooling fan is connected at the bottom of the housing, but you will have to cut and bend the tin on rear side the heater box where the fan housing outlet is (just a single cut down with tinsnips and bend it towards you, then bend back when you refit) to free it without taking off the exhaust and heater boxes. Reason being the fan housing has to come back to clear the mounting studs and the top engine tin and also up to clear the heater boxes.
Second, you have to disconnect the alternator connections from the starter motor and regulator and feed the cable through the tin ware or remove the alternator altogether (remember to release the rubber boot at the back of the alternator with a phillips head screw driver from below before trying to take the alternator out). as it is attached to the cooling housing.
Third, and most painful really, the oil dipstick tube has a rubber bellows on it that joins the tube through the housing to the engine case, quite fragile and it will probably leak if it isn't now. Bugger to get back on too. Get a new one made of Viton before you start and then just replace it.
They are the things I can think of off the top of my head.
Then while you have it all apart, look sat the top of the cylinders and heads under the tin on both sides and see if they are clean and free of grease dirt leaves etc. Is the existing cooler clogged up with rubbish. (amazingly common) Make sure the flaps are there and working. Even without a thermostat to operate them they will sit in the warm position and are important for air flow.
Before you go down that track here is a few things that can affect your temps.
1. Checked all the tin is in place
2. The engine seal is in good condition
3. Timing is correct, and engine tuned, valve clearances correct
4. Engine case relatively clean and not covered in grease and dirt.
5. Using the correct oil in hot weather. A slightly lighter oil may help as heavy oil increases oil pressure and may operate the bypass valve which reduces the oil going through the cooler.
6. Carbs and distributor the correct ones for the engine (1800 has a 205P Dizzy (last 3 digits stamped on the side) with vac advance and Carbs with a number 4xx stamped under the float bowls. (hard to do without a camera on a phone 3xx is 1700 and 5xx is 2l) and in good condition.
7. 1800 engine with a 002 gearbox is happiest around 90-100 kmh, you might be pushing her a little hard on a hot day at 110kph if that is where you are seeing the overheating issue.
not an extensive list but all could be contributing to your issues.
good luck
Adrian
BTW When you fit the new cooler make sure you follow the torque settings which are extremely light and you can't do them with a normal torque wrench as it isn't accurate down that far. The upside is you can use the smaller one for the sump plate nut and a few other things if you go to buy one, so it isn't a one off purchase.
First is going to be the heater boxes. there are little covers that you can remove where the air bleed from the cooling fan is connected at the bottom of the housing, but you will have to cut and bend the tin on rear side the heater box where the fan housing outlet is (just a single cut down with tinsnips and bend it towards you, then bend back when you refit) to free it without taking off the exhaust and heater boxes. Reason being the fan housing has to come back to clear the mounting studs and the top engine tin and also up to clear the heater boxes.
Second, you have to disconnect the alternator connections from the starter motor and regulator and feed the cable through the tin ware or remove the alternator altogether (remember to release the rubber boot at the back of the alternator with a phillips head screw driver from below before trying to take the alternator out). as it is attached to the cooling housing.
Third, and most painful really, the oil dipstick tube has a rubber bellows on it that joins the tube through the housing to the engine case, quite fragile and it will probably leak if it isn't now. Bugger to get back on too. Get a new one made of Viton before you start and then just replace it.
They are the things I can think of off the top of my head.
Then while you have it all apart, look sat the top of the cylinders and heads under the tin on both sides and see if they are clean and free of grease dirt leaves etc. Is the existing cooler clogged up with rubbish. (amazingly common) Make sure the flaps are there and working. Even without a thermostat to operate them they will sit in the warm position and are important for air flow.
Before you go down that track here is a few things that can affect your temps.
1. Checked all the tin is in place
2. The engine seal is in good condition
3. Timing is correct, and engine tuned, valve clearances correct
4. Engine case relatively clean and not covered in grease and dirt.
5. Using the correct oil in hot weather. A slightly lighter oil may help as heavy oil increases oil pressure and may operate the bypass valve which reduces the oil going through the cooler.
6. Carbs and distributor the correct ones for the engine (1800 has a 205P Dizzy (last 3 digits stamped on the side) with vac advance and Carbs with a number 4xx stamped under the float bowls. (hard to do without a camera on a phone 3xx is 1700 and 5xx is 2l) and in good condition.
7. 1800 engine with a 002 gearbox is happiest around 90-100 kmh, you might be pushing her a little hard on a hot day at 110kph if that is where you are seeing the overheating issue.
not an extensive list but all could be contributing to your issues.
good luck
Adrian
A new beginning. 
+
1975 Kombi The Doctor
1976 Dual Cab Bumble Bee
1974 Microbus Matilda (parts bus)
+1975 Kombi The Doctor
1976 Dual Cab Bumble Bee
1974 Microbus Matilda (parts bus)