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Overheating woes
#11
I’m going back to basics………is your dash temp needle lying to you?
88 Blue T3 CL Caravelle
91 Blue T3 Single Cab
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#12
(29-11-2022, 07:45 PM)Azzman1000 Wrote: Just be aware that the one from the UK, (I assume you’re talking about the Forst brand from heritage parts.) is possibly only a 30mm core but I can’t confirm.

Also shipping from the UK can be frightfully expensive.
It is the Brickwerks link I posted above.  They describe it as a 42mm radiator but of 'alternative' quality but doesn't say who makes it (might be JP Parts which are cheap and sometimes ok but sometime crap in my experience), whereas the link you posted is sold as a Mahle radiator.  Van Cafe also have a 83.5-90 radiator from Nissens that they seem to reckon is pretty good https://vancafe.com/radiator-nissen-brand/ but costs about the same as the Mahle one here.

(29-11-2022, 07:45 PM)Barry Wrote: Does yours have air con?
They need a ker one doe to the condenser in front

No AC and I reckon you are ok 

I bought a fuel tank from Bickwerks the other day - and incl shipping it was cheaper than the wrong one bought here
No A/C on mine (I wish I did, it gets hot as balls in summer).  Do you know roughly how long bulky parts take to get delivered from Brickwerks?
1990 2.1litre MV window van in Sydney.  Wave if you see me
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#13
(29-11-2022, 09:13 PM)Grantus Wrote: I’m going back to basics………is your dash temp needle lying to you?

Yes, that's a valid question.  The fan was on when I was driving on the motorway and the needle was high, and when I turned the heat on I thought I was going to burn my feet, so I think the gauge is telling the truth but I do want to do more checks because the fan wasn't nailed to the higher speed, it was cycling between lower and higher speeds.

I need to do some testing.  I can stick a thermometer probe between the fins on the radiator and see what temperature it actually is before buying any new parts.
1990 2.1litre MV window van in Sydney.  Wave if you see me
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#14
(29-11-2022, 10:40 PM)Hairyman Wrote: Yes, that's a valid question.  The fan was on when I was driving on the motorway and the needle was high, and when I turned the heat on I thought I was going to burn my feet, so I think the gauge is telling the truth but I do want to do more checks because the fan wasn't nailed to the higher speed, it was cycling between lower and higher speeds.

I need to do some testing.  I can stick a thermometer probe between the fins on the radiator and see what temperature it actually is before buying any new parts.

I had an alarming temp needle indication a few years ago, warning of “imminent engine implode”……. But nothing overly hot is the engine bay.

Simple Temp sensor replacement, and all good on the needle since………. Just worth checking.

If there’s heat from the heater, your thermostat is open and working, so a full coolant flush and clean, maybe your next step, to see what come’s out  Rolleyes
88 Blue T3 CL Caravelle
91 Blue T3 Single Cab
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#15
(29-11-2022, 10:30 PM)Hairyman Wrote: Do you know roughly how long bulky parts take to get delivered from Brickwerks?

Bugger all

I ordered a fuel tank the other day and I am sure it was under a week 

Brickwerks are VERY good.
76 Bay Microbus - Woody
90 T3 Caravelle C Auto - Daisy
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#16
I ran the van today with the grill off to see how the radiator is doing.  I got the most annoying outcome: the overheating didn't repeat itself...  I probably didn't put it under enough load, but the radiator heated up pretty evenly and the fan came on at the normal indicated temperature so some parts of the system are working fine.  I dropped the spare wheel and checked the back of the fan shroud and shone a torch through the radiator to check for debris clogging the air holes between the corrugated metal fins but that was fine.

I have too much stuff in the back to open the engine lid but once I clear that I'll have a look at how the hoses and temperatures are doing in there.

Thanks for all your suggestions so far.
1990 2.1litre MV window van in Sydney.  Wave if you see me
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#17
Have you tried removing the radiator and flushing it out with a hose? I tried this many years ago with a Golf and it solved my cooling problems.
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#18
(03-12-2022, 03:14 PM)syncro Wrote: Have you tried removing the radiator and flushing it out with a hose? I tried this many years ago with a Golf and it solved my cooling problems.

No, it is a good suggestion though.  I have a set of Go Westy coolant pipe repair inserts I want to fit, so I had always intended at some stage to replace the bigger rubber hoses at each end of the plastic pipes, in which case I might as well remove the radiator, replace the bottom thermostat housing, cooling tower, and a few other bits and bobs while I'm there.  Having an 18 month old makes finding any time to actually do it waaaay harder  Big Grin

I was looking into flushing and the internet suggested https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=s--5ft5YiHg to me, which mentions using a flushing additive.  I didn't know they existed but according to Penrite they are alkaline salts that help break down sediments and rust but are harmless to "all metals, plastic and rubber".  I know the wasserboxer is comparatively touchy about what coolant goes in them so I wonder if anyone has any knowledge about how they interact with wasserboxers?  If an hour or so with the flushing additive is not a problem for the bimetallic nature of the case and headstuds then it seems like a good way of getting all the old gunk in the cooling system moving.
1990 2.1litre MV window van in Sydney.  Wave if you see me
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