+- Kombi Club Australia (https://kombiclubaustralia.com)
+-- Forum: Help & Assistance (https://kombiclubaustralia.com/forumdisplay.php?fid=27)
+--- Forum: Bay Tech Clinic (https://kombiclubaustralia.com/forumdisplay.php?fid=8)
+---- Forum: Engine & Transmission (https://kombiclubaustralia.com/forumdisplay.php?fid=39)
+---- Thread: engine and gearbox fitting question (/showthread.php?tid=494)
engine and gearbox fitting question - Crankster - 09-02-2023
OK brains trust, I have both engine and gear box out of 76 Bay. What is the best way to put them back in? Seperate ie gear box first then mate engine or can they be fitted as one unit then installed together into the bus?
RE: engine and gearbox fitting question - Oldman - 09-02-2023
In my opinion, if you have the lifting gear and clearance, engine and gearbox together saves a lot of wiggling needed to mate the engine to gearbox,, if they are installed separately .
Without the removable rear valance, later Bays can be a test of your patience……..
RE: engine and gearbox fitting question - Barry - 09-02-2023
Never done a Type 4
If a Type 1 motor - i would say seperate would be easier.
If a Type 4 - seems together is the go.
RE: engine and gearbox fitting question - Crankster - 09-02-2023
Thanks Mark and Barry. I should have clarified Barry that it is a type 4 motor.
I was planning on fitting them together and then with the bus on ramps (arse in the air for clearance), rolling the complete assembly into place. I have an atv lift that can manage the weight. Putting the two together just seemed easier than pfaffing about trying to mate the engine to the gearbox insitu
RE: engine and gearbox fitting question - Oldman - 09-02-2023
Try and keep the bus as level as possible.....if possible...
You don't want to be overstraining the gearbox mount while you lift the engine into place, or vice versa.
I know someone who "hung" the engine first and then re-positioned his jack to lift the gearbox end.......while he was dicking around, both engine mount rubbers tore.....
Biggest inconvenience of doing them separately, imo, is that 9/10 you'll have to remove the carbs to get enough clearance whilst mating the engine to the gearbox.
You also have better access for torquing the gearbox to engine while it's all out.....
RE: engine and gearbox fitting question - Crankster - 09-02-2023
(09-02-2023, 03:24 PM)Oldman Wrote: Try and keep the bus as level as possible.....if possible...
You don't want to be overstraining the gearbox mount while you lift the engine into place, or vice versa.
I know someone who "hung" the engine first and then re-positioned his jack to lift the gearbox end.......while he was dicking around, both engine mount rubbers tore.....
Biggest inconvenience of doing them separately, imo, is that 9/10 you'll have to remove the carbs to get enough clearance whilst mating the engine to the gearbox.
You also have better access for torquing the gearbox to engine while it's all out.....
Keep it level: mantra of my life I feel
Good points and makes sense: don't tear the rubbers !!!
RE: engine and gearbox fitting question - Mordred - 10-02-2023
The big thing I would add is be careful when trying to line up the gearbox support bolts on top of the gearbox. They have a step in them to help locate them in the bracket but do take a bit of effort to get started, and you can cross thread them.
If you get the bus high enough you can do it with the carbs on but you need to tip the gearbox end up on the atv jack to get the shifter end over the torsion bar tube then gently raise the back up into the engine bay watching all around to make sure you dont catch on anything.
You also need the rear tin off as the oil filler tube without plastic filler top will only just go past the rear valance, then you can push it the little further forward to get it properly seated. Watch the cables for the alternator too.
Adrian
RE: engine and gearbox fitting question - rstucke - 10-02-2023
Recently I helped Ian fit a 2.3ltr type 4 engine in his bus
Had to replace the bell housing to a 2ltr version so let the trany hang down held with a chain
Anyway left it like that when done and fitted the engine, jacked it up into position, bolted up the gearbox hanger and moustache bar and removed the chain. Pretty easy to fit the engine that way as there are no clearance issued.
I believe the workshop manual makes reference to to something similar.
RE: engine and gearbox fitting question - Crankster - 10-02-2023
Thanks everyone for the great tips and feedback. I'll let you know how I get on.
Darren
RE: engine and gearbox fitting question - T1 Terry - 10-02-2023
If you have a platform table type lifting set up, build a mounting bracket that will have the engine bar at the correct height the same time as the gearbox mount bolts line up. The alternative is to install the gearbox first, then build a support out of timber blocks or bricks to hold it up in position. Remove the front and rear tin cover plates that fills in the space between the engine and gearbox and over the exhaust so the foam seal fits, this will give you access to put the top bolts in and get them tight. and enough room to wriggle and jiggle as required .... and somewhere for the cursing to bleed out after jamming you fingers for the umpteenth time
T1 Terry