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Front Cab Doors - installing scrapers & glass
#1
There were some excellent posts on this topic on the previous forum. I was discussing this job with a friend recently, and it prompted me to go back and find my notes from when I did my cab door rebuild, and making input to the previous forum threads. I though I might share my notes here for those about to tackle this job.. It is a little long winded  I know ...sorry. 

Re-fitting front cab door internal parts (for a T2 Bay low light – 1971)
General rules - Take lots of photos before, and as you dismantle any section.  Do not throw away any old parts (including seals) until the rebuild job is finished.
Workshop Manual Reference
·         Bentley Manual – Section 1 - Parts 5.3 to 5.9
·         Scientific Publications Workshop Manual No 48 - Type 2 Volkswagen Transporter – Pages 231 to 233
·         Haynes Workshop Manual – VW 1600 Transporter - Chapter 11, Parts 12 to 16
Reference Diagrams (exploded view of parts)
·         Drawing # 1 - Cab Door Latches & Locks   https://volkswagen.7zap.com/en/rdw/typ+2+syncro/t2/1971-29/8/831-71000/
·         Drawing #2 - ¼ window and winder mechanism https://volkswagen.7zap.com/en/rdw/typ+2+syncro/t2/1971-29/8/837-72000/

Assuming everything has been removed from the cab door previously, this is my suggested sequence for refitting internal components (based on our 1971 Bus).

Check for any internal corrosion within the door cavities and treat affected areas.  Apply suitable rust preventive coatings if so desired (e.g. I used POR 15 paint and Forch L263 spray compound).  Check the drain holes at the bottom of door cavity are clear – to drain any rainwater that gets past the window seals & scrapers. 

Inspect clean & lubricate door latch & lock components then install the same.  Check everything works before refitting glass.  (See Ref Drawing #1 and the Bentley Workshop Manual).

Install the rear metal window guide channel at rear end of the door & in front of door latch mechanism. (See Drawing #2 parts 7,8,9 &10 – Bentley Manual Section 1 Part 5.6).

Inspect, clean & regrease the U-shaped window winder / lifter mechanism and install it into the door.  Check that it is not protruding into the path of the window glass.  (Drawing #2 part 21)

Apply protective tape around the door window frame to limit risk of damaging paint when refitting items. Use a marker pen on the tape to highlight the location of the holes for the external & internal scraper and felt channel clips.  (This makes it easier to line up clips later on)

If installing a new external window scraper – check that the holes for the 5 channel clips in the aluminium strip and surrounding door frame align correctly (Drawing #2 part 14).  If required, cut new holes in the aluminium strip to accept channel clips. (Be very careful with the thin light gauge aluminium frame & take care not to bend it out of shape).  You can also use the old scraper frame as a guide – but you really need a trial fit of the aluminium frame to check the holes align correctly.
Before installing, try to get the external scraper clips firm and pointing in the right direction by squeezing the scraper rubber and aluminium frame together.

Fit external window scraper & aluminium frame in place – temporarily secure upper section of aluminium frame in place with string to stop it flapping about.
Line up the scraper clips with holes in the door frame (using the marks on protective tape as a guide). Sequentially push in each clip.  Frustrating that the clips easily pop out of the holes.  I used a wooden wedge (paint brush handle) to hold the previously installed clip in place when working on the next one. It is possible to reach up inside the door cavity to help guide the clips into the holes.  You can also use a thin wire hook to help line up the clips with the holes.  Once all the scraper clips are in place – work along the scraper pressing firmly to ensure it is smooth & fairly flat against the door frame.

Next, I installed 4 of the 5 channel clips (Drawing #2 part 14).  It is suggested not to install the forward most clip closest to the ¼ window, until the ¼ window is in place (easier to install the ¼ window without this last clip in place).  I applied a little rubber friendly lubricant to the clips – lined up the locking tab with hole in the door frame – tapped the clip into the frame – then tapped the clip along the frame to engage the clip tab into the frame and lock it in place.

Clean up the glass removing the many years of built-up grime, rust stains and perished rubber.  If replacing the metal lifter channel & seal (Drawing #2 parts 22 & 23), take care to fit the channel centrally and in the same orientation as the old one.  (Bentley Manual Fig 5-23)
Next, install the window glass into the door (before installing the inner scraper or ¼ window).  Lower the glass to the bottom of the door and slide it to the rear end of the door.  Do not fit it to the winder mechanism yet.  The glass is easier to install if you have 2 people on the job.
Install the inner scraper seal (See Drawing #2 part 17).  Leave the clip next to the ¼ window undone.  [It may be possible to install the Internal scrapper  after the ¼ window?]

If not done so already – assemble the ¼ window frame, seals, and glass – including the upright felt channel for the main window. (See Ref Drawing #2)
Check the main glass is still at the bottom of the door & as far to the rear as possible.  Working from the cab side of the door, insert the ¼ window assembly into the door.  Be extra careful not to damage the scrapers when inserting the lower upright section.
Manoeuvre the glass in the door cavity to engage the upright felt channel of the ¼ window frame.  Push the ¼ window frame forward into place, ensuring it captures the aluminium frames of the scrapers.  If required, gently tap it home with a rubber mallet.  Secure the frame with the upper and lower screws.  The upper screw is a Pan Philips head M5 x 0.8 thread with spring washer.  The lower mount takes a M6 bolt with a flat washer. (Drawing #2 Parts 3-4 and 31-32)

Install the final 5th channel clip adjacent to the top of the ¼ window – and finish installing the inner scraper.
Install the channel felt seal – sliding down the upright guide channel (See Drawing #2 – Putting part 13 into part 7).  Carefully mould the felt channel around the bend in the door frame and press it home into the 5 clips.

Carefully lift the glass within the door cavity, ensuring it is aligned with the upright felt channels and is sliding between the inner & outer scrapers.  Attach the glass lifter channel to the winder mechanism & do up the bolts to a firm finger tight fit (Drawing #2 Part 22 fitted to Part 21).  Very gently wind the window up and down then up again to fully closed.  Check there are no gaps at the top of the window.  If there is a gap you need to realign the glass lifter.  With the glass fully up and full aligned, tighten the bolts to secure the glass lifter channel to the winder mechanism.  Gently wind the window up & down a few times to check it moves freely and is aligned – repeat alignment process if required.
Some recommend using talcum powder on new felt channels to allow the window to slide easier.

Refit the door stop block and lubricate the resistance arm (See Drawing 1 part 54).
Ensure the 2 spire clips / speed nuts (OEM part No N0154301) for the internal door grab handles (OEM Part No 211-867-161) are in place.

Do a final check that all door latch & lock components are working – and check all door cavity bolts & screws are fully tight – (and no tools left in the door!!).  Install plastic sheeting over the door cavity openings and reinstall the door card, window winder, and grab handle etc…

.....
Clear as mud ….  Smile …. what could possibly go wrong??

Just Kampers have put out a reasonable guide.

https://www.justkampers.com.au/jkblog/replace-cab-door-window-scrapers-on-a-vw-camper-37/

Here are a couple of YouTube links – they are a bit painful to watch – but they have some good points.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?time_continue=8&v=yQc_QsKnhD4&feature=emb_title

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6ebTm4dGw5w


Cheers

Grant
1971 Sopru aka Doob
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#2
Thanks Grant….this is exactly how we can rebuild the forum and any lost information…. 
Stuck  Big Grin
Cheers,
Mark
It’s not oil, it’s sweat from all the horsepower !  

Pit crew for : The Tardis - a ‘76 Sopru Campmobile
                   & Herman  - the ‘71 White Low Light
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